More to come soon!

I may have some costume creation specifications ALSO in my Terms of Service journal. Please read there as well. I must state that I do consider this another terms list of sorts. and if you disagree with any method I explain here, You must bring it up with me. No exceptions. The rules are listed out for you.
THIS journal can also answer some questions before you have to ask them! or explain some norms that you shouldn't have to ask me for. such as moving jaws etc!

It's important to know that when you want anything made by me it will be MY rendition of your character or design. I can't do anything BUT MY STYLE. (obvious) I am excited to try and match a reference as best as I can melding my style into it. But take a look in my gallery for any costumes similar to what you're looking for. IF I have not done anything similar to what you want from me, You are going to have to be happy with my rendition of what you want. Specially if it is a creature that I am not as familiar with/ trying new things.

If you are ordering a resin blank for a character or matching a blank I have to an animal of which I do not have an exact blank of. I may speak up on if I feel it won't work well for what you're wanting in the end/ voice my opinions on it. Please expect that. and I am trying to help you get what you want to make in the end! Sometimes if I'm setting something up for an animal or a character that it just won't work for, (mostly regarding ready to fur blanks) It will be harder for me to wrap my head around it!

Also please excuse my straightforward listings and rules. I do this for my safety and yours. I try to be pliable as much as I can!


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My time frames and how I work on these projects

I guess the most important thing to note is that I work on what I can when I can. depending on supplies or parts needed for your blank or costume piece that I have ready, or readily available at the time!

I work in bulk at times so for example (placing eyelids on multiple blanks at a time. or casting multiple silicone pieces at a time) so sometimes it gets completed in waves! I most definitely try to dremel/ cut and sand blanks in bulk!

Because I'm an artist and it's very important to know that to complete something to my utmost quality I need the artistic inspiration and while certain aspects of prepping bases and sewing fabrics are a basic arduous task. many other aspects require my full artistic attention and detail! which is normally readily available and to get things finished I may need to do what I need to do to increase artistic inspiration/energy!

One thing that increases my artistic energy is working on "muse-replenishing" projects. Yes that includes pre-made costumes or tinkering with new ideas NOT custom in commission. These projects SERIOUSLY increase my muse/artistic labito. and while I intend on finishing your projects as best as I can it has to be understood that these projects are IMPORTANT for my artistic wellbeing, growth and energy thus reflecting onto the awesome works that I'm doing with your characters and custom projects! These projects are also ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLY important for me to test out all sorts of new methods without worrying about failing. as I am not incredibly comfortable with the idea of testing things out with custom projects. as I do not want to have anything go wrong with your items! (unless you are explicitly okay with me experimenting on your projects).

I realize the idea of working on projects before or among your, or other custom commissions are finished is not choice. But this is how I have to work healthily! Please understand this. and know that every project I take on is important to me. and I want to make sure it's done well. and I have to be in the right state to do so! :)

on the subject of time frames I prefer not to give an estimate because of these things. So when you ask me for a time frame of completion, I prefer not to give an exact time. As I have said elsewhere in my TOS journal. I WILL HAPPILY hear out time frame inquiries or need by dates. but I will not at this time guarantee ANY dates. I CAN NOT do that. but I CAN try!

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Resin blank info for finished masks and other

All of my masks are priced and come with a moving jaw. All of them. I do not make non moving jaw masks!

I cast my own hinges out of the same resin I cast the resin blanks with!

Before attaching pre-setup hinges I cut the rear edge of each blank with a dremel blade to guarantee smoothness.

I cut all jaws open ONLY after I have arranged/glued the hinges first! To guarantee a correct opening and closing!

I DO NOT bolt my hinges to the blanks. I glue them with high temp hot glue. Many times I use a tough clip to hold the hinge tight to the blank as the glue dries!

I will ALWAYS prefer keeping the resin nose of the base over using a silicone nose. I cannot at this time fix up the silicone noses to be as good with airflow as drilled nostril "part of the base" resin noses are.

I cast in black resin on the inside of blanks and white resin on the outer surface!

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Insides of masks

Padding the blank
For padding, (which is a panel in the forehead and a panel behind the jawset on the chin area) I use thinner foam with a soft cotton covering over the foam! It's soft, nice and not scratchy like some foams tend to be.

Top jaw pieces.
I do NOT include top jawsets in my finished masks. they are unnecessary and constrict the air flow. I CAN include a top jaw if you feel you MUST have one. however I always suggest otherwise unless the mask is snarling. Airflow is more important than a jaw piece that most won't even see. And you will appreciate it during wear.

I do not include fans off the bat. If you would like a fan installed into your suit let me know! We can order one from Dreamvisioncreations

Vision Ports
I use a simple non stretchy black mesh fabric for the eye ports! Not too thick and not too thin :)
I can also use white plastic fabric in masks where a black mesh eye port would be too out of place or the mesh needs to be painted to match the fur, as many times my vision ports will be larger than average for better visibility.

blank edging/ softness
All rear edges are lined with felt. Why felt? I choose that because it's not only simple but it's a thicker fabric. While I also dremel cut the backs of each blank to be a smooth line. Added edging is also very important. I also add felt panels on the backs of the inside of the mouth. So there is no pinching when the jaw opens and closes!

moving jaws/ spring
Springloaded hinges are done with medium thickness elastic attached at the top outside of one hinge around behind the hinge and attached to the bottom outside of the lower hinge!

Lined heads
THERE IS NO LINING IN ANY OF MY COSTUME PIECES. I do not currently do full lining on the inside of fursuit heads, gloves, arms or feet. (or bodies etc) A balaclava can be worn! but the heads are perfectly fine to wear without full lining.
I DO however line each padding piece inside the blank!

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Patterns!

I have a monstermakers mannequin bust that I use for patterns! When I make a head, I make the full face AND hood all in one piece! I always use zippers for this reason. as the hoods are more full head fit and get smaller around the neck area.

Ears are finished and sewn into the hood/face pattern before the fur is in any way attached to the resin blank! That way ears are nicely sewn into the head :)

Almost each and every pattern piece is made custom for the new commission. Including ear patterns, tails, and of course everything else that is custom sized. Some patterns that could potentially be reused often, I have to re-pattern anyhow. Most things I create for you are fully custom.

for heads, I prefer to make a pattern with a tiny bit of wiggle room in the fur area. The elastic strap inside the head should be tight enough. I don't feel as comfortable making tight fur hoods as they can get frustrating to zip.

Sometimes I will sew markings and sometimes I will airbrush them. We can talk about details of that and what works best for the design. More hyper realistic items look best airbrushed.

I always add shading details to bring out prominent features in masks. such as cheekbones, brows etc. Some might say that since it's already a full 3D item, no shading should be needed. But I beg to differ.I find it to add a lot of pop to the design and character!

I used to hand paint all of my items when I started. but now I use an airbrush! I use ACRYLIC PAINTS to paint your items. I find they stay colorfast pretty dang well! I've washed a few things that were acrylic based paint only in the wash and nothing came out. However the createx paints I started with, while vibrant, I found washed out more.

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EYES

I use only acrylic dome blanks. They are not glass. and they are not "resin". I purchase them in different sizes from delviesplastics.com ! (acrylic halfround cabochons) Perfectly clear!

These cabochons that I use ALWAYS ALWAYS have a follow effect. There is no "no follow eyes" option in my blanks! unless a special glass, flatter cabochon is used or if taxidermy glass eyes are used, in which case I am happy to work with those if that is preferred!

For eye images, I create them in photoshop, print them and then using E6000, glue them to the backs of eye blanks! It takes a total of 24 hours for a pair of eyes to be dry and usable without high risk of the image pulling off slightly leaving horrible glares in the image.

I like to do a two piece gluing set for the eye patterns. Where I print out two of each eye pattern, and glue them both onto the blank one behind the other. It gives an awesome fuller color effect. and if I print one with slightly different contrast or pattern than the top layer it looks extra deep in design!

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PLEASE NOTE THAT IF ANYTHING ON THIS LIST IS NOT OKAY BY YOU. PLEASE REFRAIN FROM COMMISSIONING ME.