totaly F***&^&^*(
15 years ago
ok everyone im now fucked for a while my week could not of gotten worse i was on my way to get the radiator support for my car and on the way my volt meter was telling me my battery was dying as i was accelerating my volt meter slowly dropped it was at 12 when i left and it slowly dropped down as i accelerated as i pulled off of the freeway into the emergency lane i pumped the gas to generate the alternator to get power to the battery but it did not work once i slowed down from 70MPH to 10MPH to pull off to teh side my RPM needle was stuck at 3500 and at a stop it stayed that way until i shut the car off it went down to 0RPM so i had it jumped as the jump cables were on the battery in both my car and the state troopers car my volt meter went above 12 once i had the key turned on the accessory which is where the battery volts need to be and my car started right up as the cables were taken off my battery was not holdong a charge i tried to pump the gas to generate the power but my battery did not want to hold the charge and my RPM needle was tweaking out again then as the battery died my car did so i had to have it towed paid 170 bucks leaving me only with 40 bucks in the bank its not looking good for me so im trying to sell my subs and amplifier to get my money back. and their is a chance i cant fix my car since the insurance people say my car may be a total loss but were not sure i hope its not. but if i cant get it fixed they will mail me a check to compensate. they will ot tow my car i will keep it take whats left of the check once they deduct the salvage fee and fix my car myself. but till then my life sucks now 8im out of a cow for god knows how long im home bound i fucking hate it cant go out i cant get a hold of any of my furry locals to find out about any meets or to pick me up to hang with them they dont answer my calls im getting pissed i may not have any rides to get to any furry meets even i need rides to teh meets it sucks it really sucks
FA+

1. When you start your car, your batteries job is done, it's no longer working, it's just sitting there and charging while your alternator powers your car. The battery is only there to work your electronics when the engine is not running.
2. If you had a generator, pumping the gas would seem logical, however alternators work very well above 1000rpm, as long as you're above that line you should have a good 14+ volts
3. I believe your car has an exciter wire, meaning as soon as it sees power and has enough speed, it will start to charge. If this exciter wire is loose, or disconnected then the system will not charge, it's always a good place to look first. HOWEVER it could be bad timing and your voltage regulator inside the alternator may have died, in this case you just replace the alternator and go about your business. I don't believe an 80s VW has too complicated of a charging system so it should be one or the other (is what NORMALLY happens).
4. When your car starts to run low on power, it will tend to screw up your electronics, this is probably why your gauge cluster was acting up.
I'm going to stop numbering already...
When the claims adjuster calls you and tells you what you will be getting for your car, you can typically argue with them, normally it'll be a few hundred dollars difference in a case like this. Given in a previous post you claimed the damage was $2300 which your insurance showed that to be 120% of the cars price, I'm willing to bet they'll cut you a check between $1500-1840 and you will have to toss them a few hundred to buy the car back from them (If they salvage it, they will own it, but you can buy it back). The only thing you can really do is call them up, argue it's worth more because it was in good shape, find comparable foxes and what they are selling for, if they're SELLING at $2000+ then you might get a $2000 check if you can prove this is what it was worth. It all depends on the adjuster you're working with though, in the end it's his or her call to make.
As far as the alternator goes, don't screw around, if it was me I'd take it off, have a local parts store test it, if it's bad then call around, find prices and buy one that works for you (I like to stay with the limited lifetime warranty stuff). It could cost you $60, it could cost you $200, I don't know. If the alternator tests good, you have an issue with your wiring leading to or from the alternator, if you got a jump and it ran fine until the cables were taken off, it's not an issue with your battery.