I use Envirotex Resin, same brand/mix as the Easy Cast. When it hardens, it is slightly softer, but the amount is negligible.

- Make sure it is about 75-80 degrees F where you are working. Make sure the resin is about that temperature. Warmer the better, but it cures a lot faster in the heat/sun, so you have to keep on top of the bubbles. I do my work in a green-house on a sunny day. The resin de-gasses itself quite nicely when it is very warm. Sometimes I don't even need to scrape away additional bubbles.

- Be in a low air flow environment. That will save you a lot of headache trying to pick out dust and debris before the resin cures.

- I do not have a measuring mixing cup, but instead I take a 1/4 measuring cup, pour 1/4 C of water into a clear plastic disposable cup, mark where the water sits, then pour in another 1/4 C, then mark with a sharpie where that sits. This way, you will be guaranteed to pour equal parts. (Of course can be scaled down.) I obviously I pour the water out, and let the cup air dry. The 1/2 cups of resin makes about 3 palettes of eyes.

- Use your breath to de-gas the resin. It reacts to the Carbon Dioxide, not you blowing on it. What I do is hold my breath for a bit, then gently breathe on it. Make sure not to breathe in the fumes when you inhale. (Work in a really bright environment, you can see potential bubbles much better.)

- I use a tooth pick while the resin is still fresh, and gently scrape away large bubbles or dust. Be gentle, or else your resin will have swirls in it.

- Use the 2 cup method, measure in one cup, mix for 1 min, and then pour into another cup, and mix for another minute. No need to "whip" it; you can stir it at a moderate pace with a tongue depressor. Make sure the scrape the stir stick on the cup a few times. This process is MUCH easier when the resin is warm. (75°/80° - can be warmer, but greatly reduces curing time.)

FOLLOW ME EYES:

- You need a clear glue like E-6000 or Craft Goop to glue the 2 eyes together, so it makes a seamless lens. More glue the better. You can peel away any excess.

- To make it easier to glue the 2 halves together, over-fill the mold so that the "back" is flat, (You can snip away excess resin) if they are concave, gluing them together will cause horrible bubbles.


PAINTING

- To make the pupil centered, and circular, you can add a drop of paint to a flat surface, then gently dab the back of the eye into the drop. This takes some practice. With just flat eyes, I made a template with a hole cut out in the middle, so my drop of paint is always centered.

- I like using Kleancolor metallic nail polish. It has a very nice thick reflective properties. Not necessarily realistic, but it sure is pretty. x)


- The color will reflect into the other half when you glue them together in the middle. and the follow-me effect will work much better. Smaller pupils make for a more dramatic effect, since they become magnified.

- If you would like your eyes to have a colored high contrast ring around them, paint on the flat side of the half that faces outwards before you glue the two halves together.

I hope this helps out anyone who is having tons of trouble pouring up eyes.