
First off, I'd like to say that doing this has actually helped me out too. It forced me to really concentrate on what I'm actually doing and focus on the structure of the drawing at each step instead of just seeing the final outcome. So thank you for getting me to do this for you even though it was totally my offer!
Alright, so I chose to do the "head-on" view since this is the first one I started to feel like I was understanding when I started (and I realized it was the one tutorial I didn't have sitting in my scraps yet). I think I broke it up into enough phases, especially since this has 6 parts instead of 4 like the others. Hopefully my commentary below will be able to sufficiently supplement anything unclear from the drawing itself. But enough of me rambling... Now for the steps!
1. I start off with an oval that's slightly longer the vertical way. The reason I choose an oval over a circle is that I like to have a larger forehead region to keep more of a child's (aka "cuter") facial structure. I then divide the face in half the longer and shorter ways and subdivide the top and bottom halves in half again. The horizontal guide lines will help me place all of the other features later on, while the vertical guide line helps with maintaining symmetry. Make sure to make these light since you will be erasing them in the end.
2. I add the nose first with the top of it touching the middle horizontal guide line and centered on the vertical guide line. It's kinda up to you how big you want to make it, but I usually put the bottom of the nose halfway between the middle horizontal guide line and the bottom horizontal guide line; the width is slightly more than the height. Just above the nose I put a small curved line to indicate where the muzzle connects to the rest of the head. Next, I add the outline for the eyes between the top and middle horizontal guide lines such that they just about touch them. The eyes should be about a nose-width apart and also about as wide as the nose itself. Also remember to try to keep them the same distance from the vertical guide line. Finally, you can add the mouth in. The lowest parts of the upper part of the mouth will just rest on the bottom horizontal guide line and the lower jaw will extend to about 1/3 of the way between the top part of the mouth and the bottom of the oval, if you're going for an open mouth like I am here (but this can vary based on the expression desired).
3. Not much happens this step except setting up the cheeks. Halfway between the bottom horizontal guide line and bottom of the oval will be the chin. From here you want to carefully curve upward so that you will end at a point close to where the middle horizontal guide line intersects the oval on each side. Again, you want to stay as symmetric as possible. Next, you're going to scoop into the oval and as you pass through the top horizontal guide line, the tangent of your curve should be almost vertical. Now start curving your line back into the arc of the top of the oval. Repeat this for both sides. Fun fact: The slightly mathematical explanation here is the result of me being a very math-oriented person and I always think of graphing certain functions when doing this part.
4. I erased the most of the original oval since it is no longer needed. I then added a pair of curved guide lines for ears that connect to the oval at the intersection of the top horizontal guide line and oval as well as halfway between the vertical guide line and the side edges of where the oval was. However, much like the nose, the size of the ears is largely up to you (Wulpo's are a bit bigger than this, but the snow leopard references I used tended to have smaller ears so I went with that). These guide lines are curved to help me think about how they are in a 3D space and overall just help me position them so they don't look too weird (I struggled with how to do ears for a long time and I think I have a system now). Ahhh, now it's time for the cheek fur! I made a larger example of the motion I generally use when doing fur and I recommend practicing drawing in that motion. Just draw some curved shapes and try to draw fur that matches their contours. Anyway, using that mathematical rough cheek outline in Step 3, add fur to the cheeks. I did the fur a little different than Wulpo because the references I looked at of snow leopards show less of that characteristic "point" I do on Wulpo and other wolves' cheeks.
5. To start, I eliminated all of the horizontal and vertical guide lines. It's now time to add the ears, which will connect to the head at the points defined by the curved guide lines from Step 4. The angle they connect at will depend on expression again, but I have them pointed backward (away from the viewer) here. I also added a few small details like the tongue in the mouth, the eyebrows (again, angle varies with expression), and a pair of cute little teeth (put them on the lowest part of the top section of the mouth). Finally, add in the pupils to the eyes. This can be very frustrating and I had to work around a bit trying to make sure they were symmetric and the right size. Currently, I find drawing the eyes correctly is the hardest part of the head. Anyway, I usually make the pupils about half the size of the whole eye. Obviously, their placement within the eye will change based on the direction the character is looking.
6. Almost done! I erased all the remaining guide lines, but I did keep a little piece on each ear to show a crease in the texture. Next comes the hair (or really a tuft of "head fur" in this case), which is again similar to drawing a tuft of fur somewhere, only the "spikes" are larger and it extends a bit further. After that, I shaded the ears (my reference had black ears) and the inside of the mouth (excluding tongue). To do the nose and eyes, draw small circle and horizontal oval shapes to designate where you will put the white spot to denote a light source and shade everything but those shapes. It's important that the white spots appear in the same places on all of them though; otherwise it might look "off". Lastly, I added a bunch of leopard spots and shaded them in. Completed!
If you have any more questions, let me know (like my explanation being too wordy and confusing *looks back at the massive wall of text I've written*). Or, if you have any advice for me, I'm open to your suggestions because you know I'm still learning too. I hope you like it!
Made for
snowieleopard.
--
Wulpo
Alright, so I chose to do the "head-on" view since this is the first one I started to feel like I was understanding when I started (and I realized it was the one tutorial I didn't have sitting in my scraps yet). I think I broke it up into enough phases, especially since this has 6 parts instead of 4 like the others. Hopefully my commentary below will be able to sufficiently supplement anything unclear from the drawing itself. But enough of me rambling... Now for the steps!
1. I start off with an oval that's slightly longer the vertical way. The reason I choose an oval over a circle is that I like to have a larger forehead region to keep more of a child's (aka "cuter") facial structure. I then divide the face in half the longer and shorter ways and subdivide the top and bottom halves in half again. The horizontal guide lines will help me place all of the other features later on, while the vertical guide line helps with maintaining symmetry. Make sure to make these light since you will be erasing them in the end.
2. I add the nose first with the top of it touching the middle horizontal guide line and centered on the vertical guide line. It's kinda up to you how big you want to make it, but I usually put the bottom of the nose halfway between the middle horizontal guide line and the bottom horizontal guide line; the width is slightly more than the height. Just above the nose I put a small curved line to indicate where the muzzle connects to the rest of the head. Next, I add the outline for the eyes between the top and middle horizontal guide lines such that they just about touch them. The eyes should be about a nose-width apart and also about as wide as the nose itself. Also remember to try to keep them the same distance from the vertical guide line. Finally, you can add the mouth in. The lowest parts of the upper part of the mouth will just rest on the bottom horizontal guide line and the lower jaw will extend to about 1/3 of the way between the top part of the mouth and the bottom of the oval, if you're going for an open mouth like I am here (but this can vary based on the expression desired).
3. Not much happens this step except setting up the cheeks. Halfway between the bottom horizontal guide line and bottom of the oval will be the chin. From here you want to carefully curve upward so that you will end at a point close to where the middle horizontal guide line intersects the oval on each side. Again, you want to stay as symmetric as possible. Next, you're going to scoop into the oval and as you pass through the top horizontal guide line, the tangent of your curve should be almost vertical. Now start curving your line back into the arc of the top of the oval. Repeat this for both sides. Fun fact: The slightly mathematical explanation here is the result of me being a very math-oriented person and I always think of graphing certain functions when doing this part.
4. I erased the most of the original oval since it is no longer needed. I then added a pair of curved guide lines for ears that connect to the oval at the intersection of the top horizontal guide line and oval as well as halfway between the vertical guide line and the side edges of where the oval was. However, much like the nose, the size of the ears is largely up to you (Wulpo's are a bit bigger than this, but the snow leopard references I used tended to have smaller ears so I went with that). These guide lines are curved to help me think about how they are in a 3D space and overall just help me position them so they don't look too weird (I struggled with how to do ears for a long time and I think I have a system now). Ahhh, now it's time for the cheek fur! I made a larger example of the motion I generally use when doing fur and I recommend practicing drawing in that motion. Just draw some curved shapes and try to draw fur that matches their contours. Anyway, using that mathematical rough cheek outline in Step 3, add fur to the cheeks. I did the fur a little different than Wulpo because the references I looked at of snow leopards show less of that characteristic "point" I do on Wulpo and other wolves' cheeks.
5. To start, I eliminated all of the horizontal and vertical guide lines. It's now time to add the ears, which will connect to the head at the points defined by the curved guide lines from Step 4. The angle they connect at will depend on expression again, but I have them pointed backward (away from the viewer) here. I also added a few small details like the tongue in the mouth, the eyebrows (again, angle varies with expression), and a pair of cute little teeth (put them on the lowest part of the top section of the mouth). Finally, add in the pupils to the eyes. This can be very frustrating and I had to work around a bit trying to make sure they were symmetric and the right size. Currently, I find drawing the eyes correctly is the hardest part of the head. Anyway, I usually make the pupils about half the size of the whole eye. Obviously, their placement within the eye will change based on the direction the character is looking.
6. Almost done! I erased all the remaining guide lines, but I did keep a little piece on each ear to show a crease in the texture. Next comes the hair (or really a tuft of "head fur" in this case), which is again similar to drawing a tuft of fur somewhere, only the "spikes" are larger and it extends a bit further. After that, I shaded the ears (my reference had black ears) and the inside of the mouth (excluding tongue). To do the nose and eyes, draw small circle and horizontal oval shapes to designate where you will put the white spot to denote a light source and shade everything but those shapes. It's important that the white spots appear in the same places on all of them though; otherwise it might look "off". Lastly, I added a bunch of leopard spots and shaded them in. Completed!
If you have any more questions, let me know (like my explanation being too wordy and confusing *looks back at the massive wall of text I've written*). Or, if you have any advice for me, I'm open to your suggestions because you know I'm still learning too. I hope you like it!
Made for

--
Wulpo
Category Artwork (Traditional) / Tutorials
Species Leopard
Size 1280 x 684px
File Size 74.6 kB
I suppose I could. I don't know if I'll have the time this week to do it since I'm predicting I'll be a bit busy. Just let me know what element of the head you have the most trouble with so I can be sure to put more emphasis and detail into that part when I write the description. Did you have any particular head angle in mind?
I'll see what I can do. I think you're referring to the head positioning of something like http://www.furaffinity.net/view/8183001/ , right? I'll see what I can do since this was the hardest angle to learn for me. Like I said though, I might not get into working on it until next week due to a busy schedule. Just know I haven't forgetten about it. You can also look at the top of my latest journal for completion progress as well since I always update that after I finish a drawing session.
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