Yataghan style rail spike knife with the head drawn out into a D-guard. The knife is a shade over 11¼" long, with 6" from tip to choil. There's still a lot of final grinding and finishing to do, but here's the basic piece. I'll move this to scraps once I have the finished product.
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Thanks! The 'trick' here was close attention to preventing the sides of the head from mushrooming over as I forged it rectangular. Once it was flush with the body of the spike, it was fairly simple to draw it out on the horn of my anvil, knocking it back into shape over the corner as needed. As to drawing it out that far, the process speeds up as you go; the smaller the stock, the easier it forges.
Thanks! The game changer for me was when my master instructed me to draw out the handle; suddenly there was much, much more steel to work with. I should probably have thought of that myself. I've tried (with limited success due to technique) carbeurizing knives of questionable carbon content, but more recently I'm not sure whether it's worth it for the depth of carbeurization achieved. Maybe I could heat it in the woodstove for a day and see what happens. If I were to use a sealed steel pipe full of crushed charcoal for this, would you call that an effective carbeurization vessel or a pipe bomb? Hmm... maybe if I drilled a small gas outlet hole?
My uncle taught me to carbeurize using a ceramic vessel in a large bonfire, We'd keep it as hot as we could over 8 hours and we could get 1/8" pieces of steel that would through harden. But by that point the blistering from carbon absorption would be so severe we'd have to homogenize the steel through copious amounts of folding. With the carbon already in a RR spike, you shouldn't need to go near as long. We never needed a gas outlet
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