FA+
Shop
701
Views
Views
0
Favorites
Favorites
Category
All / All
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 1044 x 1280
File Size 143 kB
Report this content
More from Osiris_the_jackal
So I am going to build something I have thought about building for a very long time. Sword canes have fascinated me for years but I could never figure out a blade lock system that I was comfortable with using. I friction system where the blade fit snug with the cane shaft would work, as it was a popular method in the 1800's. So I designed this system instead. It is a depressive ball system where by pushing both ball bearings at the same time and pulling the handle out will unsheathe the blade and when hiding it again the bearing lock back into the holes. I may do a few minor changes when building it to insure a clean look and ease of use. The functionality of this piece is crucial so the blade will be harvested from old fencing blades (not the ones that bend) Hardened steel. I will be posting step by stop when I get some time and the materials. I ask that no one steal my designs. Ask before use Thank you
Category All / All
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 1044 x 1280px
File Size 143 kB
To be honest, I stink at reading diagrams.
If you are going with a bolted tang approach, generally you want the tang to be about 5 inches, atleast 3/4 of the handle.
It is generally used with two pins/bolts, the closest to the blade (an inch or so?) being of a softer material such as bamboo as it is the centre for alot of force. The second pin is pretty much an inch or so from the rear of the tang, and is traditionally copper I believe.
If you don't need the blade to be removed from the handle, epoxy is used to cement the bond. (whoops I see this)
The copper sleeve could perhaps have two strips running on either side of the blade which are pinned/bolted with the tang, but you must make sure the handle is not too thin. (whoops misread the diagram again 0.o)
You know, I'll just skype you on the blade instead of making an idiot of myself.
I should draw up designs for a naginata-esque weapon I will likely make if given the chance.
If you are going with a bolted tang approach, generally you want the tang to be about 5 inches, atleast 3/4 of the handle.
It is generally used with two pins/bolts, the closest to the blade (an inch or so?) being of a softer material such as bamboo as it is the centre for alot of force. The second pin is pretty much an inch or so from the rear of the tang, and is traditionally copper I believe.
If you don't need the blade to be removed from the handle, epoxy is used to cement the bond. (whoops I see this)
The copper sleeve could perhaps have two strips running on either side of the blade which are pinned/bolted with the tang, but you must make sure the handle is not too thin. (whoops misread the diagram again 0.o)
You know, I'll just skype you on the blade instead of making an idiot of myself.
I should draw up designs for a naginata-esque weapon I will likely make if given the chance.
Comments