
Ok then... so after havin' this set overnight an satisfied that it had thoroughly hardened I finally pried it out of the mold an gotta say in all honesty... that although it's definitely got rough edges (that can readily be smoothed down) that this turned out amazingly well fer m'very first attempt at doin' such resin craft!
The top pic is with the power off
middle pic is with power on
bottom pic is power on from a distance ta better show it's light effect
So yeah I gotta do a bit'a refinin' on the process an all... knowin' exactly how thick I'd need such pieces ta be an all so that I can make solid molds 'stead'a addin' layers may help diminish some'a the rough edges... but all in all I really like how this turned out... got a feelin' this kinda craftin' may go over big especially with any MLP fursuiters who may want their cutie marks ta glow :)
Hope ya like how it turned out :)
The top pic is with the power off
middle pic is with power on
bottom pic is power on from a distance ta better show it's light effect
So yeah I gotta do a bit'a refinin' on the process an all... knowin' exactly how thick I'd need such pieces ta be an all so that I can make solid molds 'stead'a addin' layers may help diminish some'a the rough edges... but all in all I really like how this turned out... got a feelin' this kinda craftin' may go over big especially with any MLP fursuiters who may want their cutie marks ta glow :)
Hope ya like how it turned out :)
Category Fursuiting / Tutorials
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 758 x 1280px
File Size 225.1 kB
Listed in Folders
Nice work, especially for a first shot at this!
When this wuff was a cub, he used to make all sorts of resin-cast objects. Mostly they were "jewels" and metallic "studs", as well as casting objects inside resin paperweights and such. It was a lot of fun, though the resin didn't smell all that good.
Might wuffy offer a couple suggestions, if you're going to make more objects?
Consider making a mold from a "positive" instead of a "negative" source. Basically, if you can, craft the object first in a different media, like sculpy clay, wood, foam, etc. That way, you can make certain than the object is as smooth, symmetrical, etc., as you wish. And it's normally easier to add extra details like embossing or indentions. Just make sure you don't accidentally create "undercuts" where the opening on the surface is narrower than the cut-out base of an inlay. You can paint the surface or cover with various materials if you want it slick, or to have a particular texture.
Once you have your object looking as you wish it, put it into one of those disposable foil baking pans. Try to pick one that is just wide enough to hold your object with a little space (but not too much) around it. If you want, you can build a dam around the object with sculpy or other media, like you did for the edges of your diadem. Make sure your object lays flat and won'd float.
Spray your object LIGHTLY with cooking spray.
Using pour-over rubber mold casting material (you can find one source here, there are many others: http://www.smooth-on.com/p129/I-Nee......../pages.html), pour enough rubber to cover your object. Pour a bit higher than the highest point, so nothing of your object pokes out.
Let the rubber dry/cure. Normally doesn't take too long. Peal the foil pan off, and gently flex the mold to pop your object out of the rubber. You might need to trim a bit of rubber flashing off the edges with an exacto knife.
Spray (lightly!) the inside of the rubber "negative" mold you made from your "positive" object with more cooking spray.
Then, pour your resin in layers or entirely, just as you did for your diadem here, depending on what you're making.
The edges and form, when released after curing, should look exactly like the original object. But can be transparent, metallic, etc., depending on what you do with colors and such of the resin.
This can give you a nice, clean, glass, "metal" or jewel-like object with next to no "post production" work needed to sand, polish, or trim rough spots.
Yup, making the rubber mold DOES take quite a bit of additional work (especially for a one-off), but when measured against the potential work of "clean up" after casting the resin, you might come out easier in the long run. If if you're making more than one (like matching cape clasps for each shoulder, or a line of shiny "metal" studs for a bracer, or matching "jewels" for a tiara), they'll all look exactly alike. It's a major time-saver then!
Hope this was a bit helpful!
When this wuff was a cub, he used to make all sorts of resin-cast objects. Mostly they were "jewels" and metallic "studs", as well as casting objects inside resin paperweights and such. It was a lot of fun, though the resin didn't smell all that good.
Might wuffy offer a couple suggestions, if you're going to make more objects?
Consider making a mold from a "positive" instead of a "negative" source. Basically, if you can, craft the object first in a different media, like sculpy clay, wood, foam, etc. That way, you can make certain than the object is as smooth, symmetrical, etc., as you wish. And it's normally easier to add extra details like embossing or indentions. Just make sure you don't accidentally create "undercuts" where the opening on the surface is narrower than the cut-out base of an inlay. You can paint the surface or cover with various materials if you want it slick, or to have a particular texture.
Once you have your object looking as you wish it, put it into one of those disposable foil baking pans. Try to pick one that is just wide enough to hold your object with a little space (but not too much) around it. If you want, you can build a dam around the object with sculpy or other media, like you did for the edges of your diadem. Make sure your object lays flat and won'd float.
Spray your object LIGHTLY with cooking spray.
Using pour-over rubber mold casting material (you can find one source here, there are many others: http://www.smooth-on.com/p129/I-Nee......../pages.html), pour enough rubber to cover your object. Pour a bit higher than the highest point, so nothing of your object pokes out.
Let the rubber dry/cure. Normally doesn't take too long. Peal the foil pan off, and gently flex the mold to pop your object out of the rubber. You might need to trim a bit of rubber flashing off the edges with an exacto knife.
Spray (lightly!) the inside of the rubber "negative" mold you made from your "positive" object with more cooking spray.
Then, pour your resin in layers or entirely, just as you did for your diadem here, depending on what you're making.
The edges and form, when released after curing, should look exactly like the original object. But can be transparent, metallic, etc., depending on what you do with colors and such of the resin.
This can give you a nice, clean, glass, "metal" or jewel-like object with next to no "post production" work needed to sand, polish, or trim rough spots.
Yup, making the rubber mold DOES take quite a bit of additional work (especially for a one-off), but when measured against the potential work of "clean up" after casting the resin, you might come out easier in the long run. If if you're making more than one (like matching cape clasps for each shoulder, or a line of shiny "metal" studs for a bracer, or matching "jewels" for a tiara), they'll all look exactly alike. It's a major time-saver then!
Hope this was a bit helpful!
thanks Wuff... an I didn't have any problems with the mold material itself... that sculpt putty in the first pic was what I bought... it comes in two seperate components that'cha gotta mix together like clay ta 'activate' it... yeah the resin pulled free of it with no problem an it's still intact so I could re-use it if I'd wanted to... my problem was that I hadn't made the mold deep enough the first time so had ta keep addin' more height around the outsides ta make the cast thicker... an that's why it turned out rough cause some resin seeped through the cracks b'tween the added putty...
yeah with that putty ya don't even need ta spray it or nothin'... but thanks fer the tips :)
yeah with that putty ya don't even need ta spray it or nothin'... but thanks fer the tips :)
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