Nice!

...what kind of tools are you using to bend the metal plates for this?

Hmm...Thats no simple answer.

I'll do the best I can.


For cutting pieces out of larger sheets of metal, I have a 14 inch bandsaw.

After that, deburring the edges is recommended, and the bench grinder is used for that.

Next is dishing- I typically try to use a rawhide mallet for all dishing now, as it does not leave hammermarks in the way a steel hammer does.
However, the rawhide mallet is best used for thin steel and most aluminum.

After dishing comes planishing.

Planishing is the process of removing the dings and dimples caused by hammering a bulged spot into the metal- (Called "bouging")

Typically, this is done with a stake that is more or less a steel ball on a thick post.
You move the sheet metal shape over it while hammering down with a flat faced hammer. This causes the high and low spots to conform to the shape of the ball underneath.

Planishing is really tedious.
It takes forever, and any way to bypass or shorten this step is always a good idea.
Anytime I make armor, planishing is 75% of the time spent on a single piece.

The combination of 12 gauge aluminum, a rawhide mallet, and a smooth steel dishing form cuts most of the planishing time out of construction, because the metal smooshes down into the smoothly polished dish, and leaves a clean and smooth surface- No planishing needed for most of it so far.

Sanding is the next to last step.
You can only get the surface of the metal so smooth most times, and the entire or nearly the entire surface needs to be smoothed down to the same level all over.

I typically use a flap wheel on a bench grinder to do this stage.

Then its time for polishing.
Depending on what type of finish I am looking for, this can be felt wheels and polishing compound for a mirrored surface. Or the technique I discovered recently for really fine satin finishes using scotchbrite pads on the grinder.


That simply prepares the armor for assembly.

Riveting everything together and checking the articulation for smooth operation is another process.
But I think you get the idea.

-Badger-

oh you have a whole tool shop for it

(that was all you had to say)

but ya - wait....

Its aluminium?

...not steel?

Dude, not cool

Theres a number of reasons why aluminum was chosen over steel.

This is for a costume, so weight and not having to clean up rust before putting it on were important considerations.


I make plenty of steel armor.

I wanted this to be pleasant to wear at a convention where I would not fighting in it.

I'll be making steel versions for the SCA later; which is why I am keeping the cardboard patterns.


-Badger-

ah ok... I was thinking that it was for combat use... not cosplay use - ok then :p

The aluminum in question is a touch over 2mm thick, (12 gauge), and a springy aircraft alloy.

It stands up to SCA bouhard combat quite well, actually.

I could wear this armor onto the field and pass a marshal's inspection and fight.

Provided I had on a list legal helmet and the points of the knees and elbows were properly covered.

I have provided combat legal armor to other fighters from this exact same alloy and thickness before.


-Badger-