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I may be a fabricator... but I never really do bodywork stuff. It's mainly engine support brackets, big bits of plate steel, or tubing... Sheet metal is it's own beast!
This is the driver's floor of my Fiero, and had a nice rusted out area. I cut it out, and butt-weld replaced it with these patch panels. Rosette Welds are in the same location as factory spot welds. I threw primer on it to prevent rust for now. I am going to have the whole car media blasted later on in the project. I will make it look prettier on the bottom (Doesn't look so pretty down there) for car shows and stuff at that time. But for now, I am pretty happy with this!
Note my sharpie marks which were for getting the floorboard design right bled right through the acid etch primer :P Neat that it does that.
This is the driver's floor of my Fiero, and had a nice rusted out area. I cut it out, and butt-weld replaced it with these patch panels. Rosette Welds are in the same location as factory spot welds. I threw primer on it to prevent rust for now. I am going to have the whole car media blasted later on in the project. I will make it look prettier on the bottom (Doesn't look so pretty down there) for car shows and stuff at that time. But for now, I am pretty happy with this!
Note my sharpie marks which were for getting the floorboard design right bled right through the acid etch primer :P Neat that it does that.
Category All / All
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Depends on the primer. It has copper weld-thru primer under it (primer to prevent rust, and able to weld the painted surface), and the acid etch primer is thrown on top of that. Also... There is a difference:
My car is in a garage, not exposed to any elements... and your truck is just a piece of shit :P
My car is in a garage, not exposed to any elements... and your truck is just a piece of shit :P
Heh, you're right, primer's job isn't to prevent rust, primer is like a sticky sponge, it sticks to metal well and paint sticks
to primer, primer is great at absorbing paint and contaminants alike. Some primers with a phosphoric acid component will
passivate rust that's already there but still, needs to be sealed. I've found recently that those 3 inch wide small diameter
paint rollers are just bitchin for applying a good protective layer.
to primer, primer is great at absorbing paint and contaminants alike. Some primers with a phosphoric acid component will
passivate rust that's already there but still, needs to be sealed. I've found recently that those 3 inch wide small diameter
paint rollers are just bitchin for applying a good protective layer.
Yep. And you're right about some primers helping with rust, that's the deal with my tailgate that I mentioned. I already knew it going in, not my first rodeo, but I got lazy. I hit it with a rust converting primer which is great to help when painted over, but I never did any more to it so I'm almost right back to where I was in the first place. Meh, I'll find time to care later...
lol
lol
Not bad. You have to stitch weld in small sections bouncing back and forth to evenly shrink the metal to prevent the oil can effect. 1" sections is a good rule of thumb. Keep heat low (but high enough for good penetration) and in any long areas, do some hammer welding to re-stretch the metal after welding.
Keep factory spot welds in the same location, as they help the car flex. if you solid weld it all, you can have your welds crack!
Keep factory spot welds in the same location, as they help the car flex. if you solid weld it all, you can have your welds crack!
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