Well, its going to be stripped of paint soon, I don't like the quality of the paint so will sand down to bare metal, new hood and nose pieces, no major damage, just cosmetic, rusty door will be replaced and we'll get it a fresh coat of paint. I'm thinking of leaving off the side bumpers as they totally wreck the lower shadow line on the body. small pic today.
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I need to do some sanding, body filling, and painting on my minivan in the springtime. I've never really done car painting before, so can you give me a bit of a sanity check on my plans?
It's got some rust bubbles under the paint. Mostly on the edges of the wheel wells and hood and doors. Use a steel wire wheel to remove paint and rust from the bubbled areas down to bare metal. Bondo to fill in any holes or pits. Sand down with some 200 grit, then some 600 grit paper. Buy the matching touch up paint at auto parts place. Prime, paint, and if I'm feeling confident the clear coat. What am I missing?
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It's got some rust bubbles under the paint. Mostly on the edges of the wheel wells and hood and doors. Use a steel wire wheel to remove paint and rust from the bubbled areas down to bare metal. Bondo to fill in any holes or pits. Sand down with some 200 grit, then some 600 grit paper. Buy the matching touch up paint at auto parts place. Prime, paint, and if I'm feeling confident the clear coat. What am I missing?
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I would wire wheel it esp if you can find where the rust started and that its not a through hole in the panel, wire wheel will reveal that. before putting in filler, you want to attack the rust with a converter coating as most body fillers are moisture permeable and the same for a lot of primers. I use Gemplers rust converter coating, comes in a gallon, I'm trying to recall the smaller volume stuff, I want to say it was Permatex... yeah, permatex rust treatment, 8oz bottle, I have some if you want, I've switched brands to the gemplers. That will stabilize the rust, Once that's dried, now you can put on some primer, a couple good coats should work. Body filler has a working window, its recoat time, usually its 72 hours, apply your filler over the primer inside that window, after the recoat window, primer gets super hard and you'll have to scuff it with 220. For rust and matching the paint level, use a lightweight body filler, its much thinner than the classic glop. Once dried and sanded, a couple coats of primer and a little sanding before washing it off, let it dry, wipe away any dust and paint. Most body supply places can take your paint code and put the matching paint in a very nice fan tip spray can.
trucks are kinda terrible, they don't handle well especially in emergencies, high CG adds to that and also to the rollover potential, they guzzle gas or in my case diesel, they want tires that cost between $200 and $450 each, they can be a pain to get in and out of, and they are generally exempt from needing crash protection in the doors along with not having any fuel tank protection. Even though gas is cheap now, it won't be forever.
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