My new set of torque wrenches came in today, is the first of the tools I have to buy to start working on my car.
I picked these up at Amazon for $50.00
The first one is a 1/4 inch drive in inch pounds 20-200
The second one is a 3/8 inch drive in foot-pounds 5-80
The last one is a 1/2 drive in foot-pounds 10-150
They are click type torque wrenches have never uses this brand before "PITTSBURGH© PRO" so I do not really know the quality of the tool but in a few months when I have all the stuff for my car I will figure it out and I will say how they perform but until then I don't know if anybody has use brand of tool before please let me know what you think.
I picked these up at Amazon for $50.00
The first one is a 1/4 inch drive in inch pounds 20-200
The second one is a 3/8 inch drive in foot-pounds 5-80
The last one is a 1/2 drive in foot-pounds 10-150
They are click type torque wrenches have never uses this brand before "PITTSBURGH© PRO" so I do not really know the quality of the tool but in a few months when I have all the stuff for my car I will figure it out and I will say how they perform but until then I don't know if anybody has use brand of tool before please let me know what you think.
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I think you have the 3/4 mixed up with the 1/2. Ide think the half is the 5-80 ? And i have one of there wrenches its not bad i recallibrated it once i got it and checked it a couple times after it is about 97% accurate witch is good considering my snapon ones are 99% accurate. What do you need to do on your car ?
replacing the timing belt and the rocker arms and rocker arm shafts, the hydraulic lash adjusters in the rocker arms are going out starting to hear some tapping after starting, and the timing belt water pump thermostat and all of the heater hoses and upper or lower radiator hose fleshing out the system changing the oil again replacing the camshaft positioning sensor spark plugs coil wires and maybe even the camshaft itself.
If your going to all that work ide do a compresson check as well and likely be wise to hone your valves or at very least replace valve seals but if your haven to replace a cam ide be questing the overall wear of the entire engine then posibly just do a full rebuild. But this all also depends on alot. Dose it burn oil ? Dose it have leaking oil seals? Dose it have high miles? Ect. Also if you can aford it switch to a good quality synthetic oil it will help you stay runing much longer then conventional oils ever will and will improve power/ fuel efficiency
The car is my 2004 Dodge neon with a 2.0 right now it's sitting at 95,500 miles plus the car set for about 3 to 3 1/2 years and the previous owners did not use proper antifreeze and it and a detailed inspection all of the belts and hoses are original, so I figure it is time for a new timing belt and replace the water pump and I do not replace water pumps without replacing the thermostat and if I'm going to go that far on my is well replace all of the belts and hoses.
The reason for replacing the rocker arms is that I did an oil change on him not too long ago using Castrol GTX 10/40 Motorola live always used in all of my cars and never really had any problems with it but I started getting a noticeable valve tap the kind that you get when a lifter collapses this particular car does not have lifters it has hydraulic lash adjusters four for the exhaust and eight for the intakes it is recommended that you replace the rocker arms with the hydraulic lash adjusters when they start tapping I really do not want to pull the head off but before I do that I am going to do a cylinder leakage test and a compression test just to make sure I do not have to go any further.
There is no noticeable oil leaks in the car does not burn any oil and the spark plugs come out clean the car does have excellent acceleration and I may or may not replace the camshaft it depends on how the rollers look when I get broken down that far.
The reason for replacing the rocker arms is that I did an oil change on him not too long ago using Castrol GTX 10/40 Motorola live always used in all of my cars and never really had any problems with it but I started getting a noticeable valve tap the kind that you get when a lifter collapses this particular car does not have lifters it has hydraulic lash adjusters four for the exhaust and eight for the intakes it is recommended that you replace the rocker arms with the hydraulic lash adjusters when they start tapping I really do not want to pull the head off but before I do that I am going to do a cylinder leakage test and a compression test just to make sure I do not have to go any further.
There is no noticeable oil leaks in the car does not burn any oil and the spark plugs come out clean the car does have excellent acceleration and I may or may not replace the camshaft it depends on how the rollers look when I get broken down that far.
Pittsurgh Pro is the brand sold at Harbor Freight Tool stores. They're good entry level tools but don't expect them to last/stay accurate as long as a mid- or top-shelf tool.
I did use one of the 1/2" torque wrench to do the head bolts on my old Toyota and they torqued out properly (double checked with the Craftsman torque wrench I couldn't find until after I bought the Pittsburgh).
I did use one of the 1/2" torque wrench to do the head bolts on my old Toyota and they torqued out properly (double checked with the Craftsman torque wrench I couldn't find until after I bought the Pittsburgh).
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