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Base head I've been working on for a Werewolf fursuit partial I want to make from scratch. Did my base modeling in ZBrush and Rendered it in KeyShot.
Ears, eyes, and jawset, will be separte from the head which i'll cast in resin after it's printed.
The view with fur is simulated just for viewing so I can see how it light look with real fur. I'm still refining this viewing process as it's not to easy to do.
My 3D printer is currently running with print for this top half of the head base. It's a 24 hour print you can watch here: http://www.sixthleafclover.com/gall.....y/3dmodels.php
Ears, eyes, and jawset, will be separte from the head which i'll cast in resin after it's printed.
The view with fur is simulated just for viewing so I can see how it light look with real fur. I'm still refining this viewing process as it's not to easy to do.
My 3D printer is currently running with print for this top half of the head base. It's a 24 hour print you can watch here: http://www.sixthleafclover.com/gall.....y/3dmodels.php
Category Artwork (Digital) / All
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 1280 x 616px
File Size 158 kB
I'm also working on sculpting head base as well in Sculptris (with post-processing in Blender) for 3D printing as well. I'm curious about your decision to recast the head; at the moment I'm planning on printing high-infill with a high number of shells, and using XTC to strengthen after printing, which I think should be plenty strong. Is it a weight consideration, since you can get more strength with less material using resin?
I'll be using XTC to smooth my print out then make a silicone mold and final cast in resin. Resin would be better because you can drill into it and glue things to it. When printing a PLA plastic 3D print, it's extremely difficult to glue anything on it and it will shatter if broken. Plus with a mold I can make more than one in a timely matter if needed.
It's more about safety and production.
Our printer, the MakerBot Z18, uses PLA plastic. While PLA has very high durability, it will shatter or break into jagged pieces and edges if the impact overwhelmed its durability strength. Because of that fact, it is not ideal to wear this over the head just in case you tripped and fell or something hard hit the head hard enough to break it. You could increase the in-fill percent to increase the durability strength but that will cause tremendous wear on the extruder and using up quite a lot of filament, which makes the printed head not economical anymore.
PLA is also annoyingly difficult to work with most widely available adhesive because of its biodegradable property (vegetable oil derivative). So it's hard to get large materials, like furs and liners, to stick on the head without using large amount of expensive specialized adhesive. And it's cheaper to made a mold and recast the head in resin if we want to make more than just 1.
However, if your printer uses ABS plastic or the printer is a STL (stereolithiography) printer, you could go ahead and print the head directly. ABS plastic and STL-cured resin don't break into jagged pieces and edges and cheap Gorilla or Loctite glues will work on them.
Our printer, the MakerBot Z18, uses PLA plastic. While PLA has very high durability, it will shatter or break into jagged pieces and edges if the impact overwhelmed its durability strength. Because of that fact, it is not ideal to wear this over the head just in case you tripped and fell or something hard hit the head hard enough to break it. You could increase the in-fill percent to increase the durability strength but that will cause tremendous wear on the extruder and using up quite a lot of filament, which makes the printed head not economical anymore.
PLA is also annoyingly difficult to work with most widely available adhesive because of its biodegradable property (vegetable oil derivative). So it's hard to get large materials, like furs and liners, to stick on the head without using large amount of expensive specialized adhesive. And it's cheaper to made a mold and recast the head in resin if we want to make more than just 1.
However, if your printer uses ABS plastic or the printer is a STL (stereolithiography) printer, you could go ahead and print the head directly. ABS plastic and STL-cured resin don't break into jagged pieces and edges and cheap Gorilla or Loctite glues will work on them.
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