
Bigger posted version is located here.
People ask me why do I use camera raw. I tell them because it saves me when the camera is stupid or am I stupid. I did this up as an example to show what can happen. I would not been able to do 90% of this if I didn’t have raw to start with.
For those that don’t know what Raw is – camera raw is a format that contains all the information the camera WOULD use to process the picture unaltered, unmodified, uncompressed. By using the raw file I can do some change exposure and color without much loss of quality. With more radical changes I still can do some techniques to recover.
Okay lets start looking at the process
1) Okay the original picture was taken after 10 minutes I got up literally. Wandered downstairs at 9 AM in the morning all groggy and Duncan was there.
He was a willing subject but I had 3 problems.
The first is my shoe mount on my Canon XSI was finicky it would randomly fail a lot. So flash takes a pain in the ass to get working.
Second for every 500 pictures I take 1 is a flash. You can figure out how much I practice flash.
Third it was 9 AM in the morning
He was patient to a point and I appreciate that and I thought I got something useful little did I know how wrong of a thought THAT was.
Then I looked at it yeah - very very poorly taken. But I felt real bad that Duncan spent a few minutes with me to take the picture in that morning so I figure I would do something with it.
The big problem is the light behind the subject. Not only does that do a nuclear explosion and distraction from the subject but it is also what the camera was using as the light 0. Even with a drop in EV it really was a bad bad bad light. If I was was thinking I would of used a fill light (aka the flash on the camera) or really got my light work.
Step 2 - So I bring the picture into Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 2.5. There are a lot of Camera Raw workflow programs my two favorite for overall use is Aperture and Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. I consider now Lightroom as my primary one - I do not use Aperture unless it's to look at an old old picture.
Why use Lightroom over photoshop and bridge – they both use the same engine (ACR 5.5 in this case). Long story short - Full non destructive editing in Lightroom with a history of every action you take. As long as you edit always in Lightroom it will not make the changes to the picture but keep those changes separate until you export out of Lightroom. This is huge since you can see what you did and come back later to fix/redo a picture if you figure another way to work with it. There are other reasons but that is not something I want wander about today ;)
In Lightroom I built a whole series of presets that simulates the camera white balance and it's camera photostyle like standard, portrait, neutral and stuff. By doing that I can mouse over it and it shows me a preview of what it would look like with those settings. This in most pictures get me 90% done. In this one I am looking for the one that gets closer to what I original wanted which was my camera faithful settings with an auto white balance.
Step 2 Wrong Direction - I quickly did some changes and moved around a few sliders and if I continued with those settings I would of got that as my output. Not exactly what I liked. The colors are just wrong for me – to much reds and pinks. I personally consider it the wrong way. In Lightroom I have an infinite history so i went back to the point where I liked it the most and restarted my editing.
Step 3 – Now I just started to putzs with it. The major things I did in my mind are. Up the exposure a lot more than what Lightroom wanted me to do. Then once the base was where I wanted I upped the fill light of the whole scene. Fill light can really destroy dark spots and shadows in this case that is a good thing. Changed the white balance by hand – making it pleasing to MY eye. I think took an “exposure” brush over the window and killed the exposure taking away it’s nuclear look it got . I also pushed up the contrast and bumped up the sharpness on Duncan himself.
And tada we got a very noisey picture but almost worth something to post. I am very sure that Duncan WOULD NOT appreciate that noisey of balloons ;). So after playing with a few options I outputted that version of the pic.
Step 4 –
95% of my pictures are done in Lightroom. 5% is when I can’t do it I will drop out. This is one of those 5%. Again Lightroom has some decent noise algorithms but not as good as other packages. From experimenting with Lightroom 3 beta I probably would been able to get the effect I wanted from there easily but I couldn’t with 2.5 so I am using a package called Noise Ninja. It’s a stand alone app/plug that help produce some excellent noise damping results. In this case I push up it’s default settings I know it’s going to make things look more “plasticy” but I rather not have noise that is colorful than plastic look. If Duncan looks more like a toy so be it ;)
Step 5 –
Out of Noise Ninja I bring it back into Lightroom. Again I ask myself is this a picture that I like. The answer was ALMOST. At this point I broke the raw workflow. But the next steps I wanted to do after the noise was taken out. So I stack these two images together to and meta tag mark they are the same pictures. Duncan still was stuck in the picture, he’s not the focus of the shot yet. So I did a quick brush stroke on him upping his sharpness, exposure, clarity and contrast any of these 4 would caused some extreme noise patterns. I also dropped his saturation of color – taking out that gashly tints and making him pop out of the picture. Now one last thing - this is Duncan – Duncan has balloons – it’s his trademark. He would be sad if his balloons didn’t pop out as much as him. So I cranked up the exposure, saturation, and a few other things.
And I was finally happy enough with the picture to post it. This process took about 30 minutes. During this time I really just was sitting on IM talking to people while doing this. I personally would of preferred to have taken a good picture first but hey ;)
I hope you found this useful. I prefer to do verbal/demonstrations for helping out and teaching as you can see writing is not my strength here.
Thanks for reading and any questions or comments please ask.
Update
I had a friend ask about why did I not straighten it out. I had multi reasons but it boils down to it. I tried straightening out and I thought it ruin the crop and also got in the way of the balloons and we all know Duncan == balloons.
Also it drove me up the wall I touched up his ear if you notice in 6 and the final version it's different the final is more dark. I just use a simple "burn" brush to darken it back to make it look much more well dark.
Also tweaked the bow to make it look a lot less plastic to me.
Anyways again hope it's helpful
I forgot one thing - there is a glow around Duncan that is partly intentional and partly not. With all the algorithms going on it pushed out an edge and distortion are in a few places. If I was doing this as a print or something I would want to take it out. I personally like it in this picture because it helps separate duncan from the rest of the picture. If I was taken it out I would paint with a brush or a clone tool to get some texture. But again I like it for the web like that.
Hope this helps
Moving out of scraps since people are finding it useful
People ask me why do I use camera raw. I tell them because it saves me when the camera is stupid or am I stupid. I did this up as an example to show what can happen. I would not been able to do 90% of this if I didn’t have raw to start with.
For those that don’t know what Raw is – camera raw is a format that contains all the information the camera WOULD use to process the picture unaltered, unmodified, uncompressed. By using the raw file I can do some change exposure and color without much loss of quality. With more radical changes I still can do some techniques to recover.
Okay lets start looking at the process
1) Okay the original picture was taken after 10 minutes I got up literally. Wandered downstairs at 9 AM in the morning all groggy and Duncan was there.
He was a willing subject but I had 3 problems.
The first is my shoe mount on my Canon XSI was finicky it would randomly fail a lot. So flash takes a pain in the ass to get working.
Second for every 500 pictures I take 1 is a flash. You can figure out how much I practice flash.
Third it was 9 AM in the morning
He was patient to a point and I appreciate that and I thought I got something useful little did I know how wrong of a thought THAT was.
Then I looked at it yeah - very very poorly taken. But I felt real bad that Duncan spent a few minutes with me to take the picture in that morning so I figure I would do something with it.
The big problem is the light behind the subject. Not only does that do a nuclear explosion and distraction from the subject but it is also what the camera was using as the light 0. Even with a drop in EV it really was a bad bad bad light. If I was was thinking I would of used a fill light (aka the flash on the camera) or really got my light work.
Step 2 - So I bring the picture into Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 2.5. There are a lot of Camera Raw workflow programs my two favorite for overall use is Aperture and Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. I consider now Lightroom as my primary one - I do not use Aperture unless it's to look at an old old picture.
Why use Lightroom over photoshop and bridge – they both use the same engine (ACR 5.5 in this case). Long story short - Full non destructive editing in Lightroom with a history of every action you take. As long as you edit always in Lightroom it will not make the changes to the picture but keep those changes separate until you export out of Lightroom. This is huge since you can see what you did and come back later to fix/redo a picture if you figure another way to work with it. There are other reasons but that is not something I want wander about today ;)
In Lightroom I built a whole series of presets that simulates the camera white balance and it's camera photostyle like standard, portrait, neutral and stuff. By doing that I can mouse over it and it shows me a preview of what it would look like with those settings. This in most pictures get me 90% done. In this one I am looking for the one that gets closer to what I original wanted which was my camera faithful settings with an auto white balance.
Step 2 Wrong Direction - I quickly did some changes and moved around a few sliders and if I continued with those settings I would of got that as my output. Not exactly what I liked. The colors are just wrong for me – to much reds and pinks. I personally consider it the wrong way. In Lightroom I have an infinite history so i went back to the point where I liked it the most and restarted my editing.
Step 3 – Now I just started to putzs with it. The major things I did in my mind are. Up the exposure a lot more than what Lightroom wanted me to do. Then once the base was where I wanted I upped the fill light of the whole scene. Fill light can really destroy dark spots and shadows in this case that is a good thing. Changed the white balance by hand – making it pleasing to MY eye. I think took an “exposure” brush over the window and killed the exposure taking away it’s nuclear look it got . I also pushed up the contrast and bumped up the sharpness on Duncan himself.
And tada we got a very noisey picture but almost worth something to post. I am very sure that Duncan WOULD NOT appreciate that noisey of balloons ;). So after playing with a few options I outputted that version of the pic.
Step 4 –
95% of my pictures are done in Lightroom. 5% is when I can’t do it I will drop out. This is one of those 5%. Again Lightroom has some decent noise algorithms but not as good as other packages. From experimenting with Lightroom 3 beta I probably would been able to get the effect I wanted from there easily but I couldn’t with 2.5 so I am using a package called Noise Ninja. It’s a stand alone app/plug that help produce some excellent noise damping results. In this case I push up it’s default settings I know it’s going to make things look more “plasticy” but I rather not have noise that is colorful than plastic look. If Duncan looks more like a toy so be it ;)
Step 5 –
Out of Noise Ninja I bring it back into Lightroom. Again I ask myself is this a picture that I like. The answer was ALMOST. At this point I broke the raw workflow. But the next steps I wanted to do after the noise was taken out. So I stack these two images together to and meta tag mark they are the same pictures. Duncan still was stuck in the picture, he’s not the focus of the shot yet. So I did a quick brush stroke on him upping his sharpness, exposure, clarity and contrast any of these 4 would caused some extreme noise patterns. I also dropped his saturation of color – taking out that gashly tints and making him pop out of the picture. Now one last thing - this is Duncan – Duncan has balloons – it’s his trademark. He would be sad if his balloons didn’t pop out as much as him. So I cranked up the exposure, saturation, and a few other things.
And I was finally happy enough with the picture to post it. This process took about 30 minutes. During this time I really just was sitting on IM talking to people while doing this. I personally would of preferred to have taken a good picture first but hey ;)
I hope you found this useful. I prefer to do verbal/demonstrations for helping out and teaching as you can see writing is not my strength here.
Thanks for reading and any questions or comments please ask.
Update
I had a friend ask about why did I not straighten it out. I had multi reasons but it boils down to it. I tried straightening out and I thought it ruin the crop and also got in the way of the balloons and we all know Duncan == balloons.
Also it drove me up the wall I touched up his ear if you notice in 6 and the final version it's different the final is more dark. I just use a simple "burn" brush to darken it back to make it look much more well dark.
Also tweaked the bow to make it look a lot less plastic to me.
Anyways again hope it's helpful
I forgot one thing - there is a glow around Duncan that is partly intentional and partly not. With all the algorithms going on it pushed out an edge and distortion are in a few places. If I was doing this as a print or something I would want to take it out. I personally like it in this picture because it helps separate duncan from the rest of the picture. If I was taken it out I would paint with a brush or a clone tool to get some texture. But again I like it for the web like that.
Hope this helps
Moving out of scraps since people are finding it useful
Category Photography / Tutorials
Species Canine (Other)
Size 1200 x 1200px
File Size 510 kB
This this, thsithisthisthis.
RAW + lightroom = neverending love.
I need to go find that Noiseninja plugin. Is it free or easy to find if its not? I think that could significantly save some of my ISO 1600 photos where I've gone "Yelch!" especially at full size. I've never been happy with any noise reduction plugin I've used for Photoshop :/
This is wonderfully clearly explained. <3
RAW + lightroom = neverending love.
I need to go find that Noiseninja plugin. Is it free or easy to find if its not? I think that could significantly save some of my ISO 1600 photos where I've gone "Yelch!" especially at full size. I've never been happy with any noise reduction plugin I've used for Photoshop :/
This is wonderfully clearly explained. <3
A friend of mine would be able to explain better. Depending how you take iso 1600+ pictures you can reduce noise naturally through camera etc so you don't use much noise reduction.
But I find Noise Ninja as a valuable tool. Unfortunately the pro license is required for working with RAW workflow in most cases. Canon cameras are usually 12-14bits on color alone. It's one of the reasons why it's so useful.
Noise ninja varies base on discount on such but worse case scenario for everything pro is 79.99. It's a good tool but I would look into lightroom 3 as much. I think Lightroom 3 noise reduction is going to be radically good.
Also what type of camera you have? Some camera manufactures include their own RAW processing software that is some cases blows away ACR (Adobe Camera Raw)
But I find Noise Ninja as a valuable tool. Unfortunately the pro license is required for working with RAW workflow in most cases. Canon cameras are usually 12-14bits on color alone. It's one of the reasons why it's so useful.
Noise ninja varies base on discount on such but worse case scenario for everything pro is 79.99. It's a good tool but I would look into lightroom 3 as much. I think Lightroom 3 noise reduction is going to be radically good.
Also what type of camera you have? Some camera manufactures include their own RAW processing software that is some cases blows away ACR (Adobe Camera Raw)
Cannon XTI, its just a little guy. :)
I cannot wait for lightroom 3. two is such an epic jump from one I can only imagine the future....
I'll take a look for noise ninja and see what I can't find. I haven't ever explored plugins for Lightroom before.
I've not messed with the settings on the camera too much except for things I know what they do (ISO, stopdown metering, etc etc, you know, photo-things, not any of the color settings or such!) so I'm not sure what I'd hit to make my 1600's less noisy. Sometimes I love the noise it produces, but sometimes... not so much. There's a time for artsy fartsy and there's a time for clear shots
I cannot wait for lightroom 3. two is such an epic jump from one I can only imagine the future....
I'll take a look for noise ninja and see what I can't find. I haven't ever explored plugins for Lightroom before.
I've not messed with the settings on the camera too much except for things I know what they do (ISO, stopdown metering, etc etc, you know, photo-things, not any of the color settings or such!) so I'm not sure what I'd hit to make my 1600's less noisy. Sometimes I love the noise it produces, but sometimes... not so much. There's a time for artsy fartsy and there's a time for clear shots
Hey the canon XTI is nothing to sneeze at if you look at the pics they are either the XTI or XSI. I really enjoy the camera.
Tried the beta it's a good evolution they are getting serious on a few things - one is noise and sharpening that gets my eyebrow cock. THe beta seems to be going in the right direction. Worth checking out though don't use it seriously since they don't promise your pics will look the same.
Plug ins with Lightroom is weird if it's for editing or effects of the picture it has to be exported as a 16 bit tiff then reloaded back in. It is the way to disconnect your changes. It's not exactly slick they know it - Adobe is looking into it but it's a hard nut because of the way lightroom works.
Also the noise is not "grain noise" like a camera if it was grain noise people wouldn't care.
IMHO there are things to care about aperture, shutter speed, iso all the rest lightroom can change if you snap raw ;)
Tried the beta it's a good evolution they are getting serious on a few things - one is noise and sharpening that gets my eyebrow cock. THe beta seems to be going in the right direction. Worth checking out though don't use it seriously since they don't promise your pics will look the same.
Plug ins with Lightroom is weird if it's for editing or effects of the picture it has to be exported as a 16 bit tiff then reloaded back in. It is the way to disconnect your changes. It's not exactly slick they know it - Adobe is looking into it but it's a hard nut because of the way lightroom works.
Also the noise is not "grain noise" like a camera if it was grain noise people wouldn't care.
IMHO there are things to care about aperture, shutter speed, iso all the rest lightroom can change if you snap raw ;)
IMHO there are things to care about aperture, shutter speed, iso all the rest lightroom can change if you snap raw ;)
SO very true. Its a good camera, I love it. I have small hands and its small. Works otu wonderfully. I'll see if I can't get my hands on a lightroom 3 demo.
THe flaws seem a little funky that you described with the plugins on 2. I'll watch that.
Also the noise is not "grain noise" like a camera if it was grain noise people wouldn't care.
Also so very true. Oh the time I take with filters to bring in that delicious grain noise flavor... I love it so.
SO very true. Its a good camera, I love it. I have small hands and its small. Works otu wonderfully. I'll see if I can't get my hands on a lightroom 3 demo.
THe flaws seem a little funky that you described with the plugins on 2. I'll watch that.
Also the noise is not "grain noise" like a camera if it was grain noise people wouldn't care.
Also so very true. Oh the time I take with filters to bring in that delicious grain noise flavor... I love it so.
quick response
Lightroom 3 beta is at Adobe Labs it's free till release of LR 3 to use.
It's not feature finished but it gives you an idea where they are going.
They turned off most of the noise functions so you are forced to test that one "function" but it is very much an improvement. And having preview actually works with sharpening and noise reduction is a big plus.
They did add their own grain option so you don't need to go in a 3rd party app to add that if you want.
Lightroom 3 beta is at Adobe Labs it's free till release of LR 3 to use.
It's not feature finished but it gives you an idea where they are going.
They turned off most of the noise functions so you are forced to test that one "function" but it is very much an improvement. And having preview actually works with sharpening and noise reduction is a big plus.
They did add their own grain option so you don't need to go in a 3rd party app to add that if you want.
remember it's still a beta and doesn't have all the noise processing done/available but still I like the results better than LR 2.5.
Also the latest Canon Digital Photo Professional will also do magic to your pictures. It has some very interesting noise reduction and that is free with your camera.
Also the latest Canon Digital Photo Professional will also do magic to your pictures. It has some very interesting noise reduction and that is free with your camera.
Kurst did an extreme make over with this image, but getting the exposure right at 1600 (or at any ISO) will save you a lot of time in processing.
XTI has 4 stops of color (same as old slide film) and the XSi has 5 stops (same as normal color film). That means in theory you can under or over expose a picture by roughly 2 (XTi) to 4 (XSI) exposures levels in Lightroom before your color and scene detail are forever lost (truth of the matter is different depending on how many shades of black and dark colors you have, and that just takes time to react correctly).
Note, on both XSI and XTI it is better to slightly overexpose than underexpose. You end up with much more multi-color noise (those evil red, blue, green dots) if you underexpose, and on the XT (can't speak for the XTI since I never owned one) being too under expose will completely trash detail and colors making one go on an adventure through Photoshop (or any other pixel editor) to selectively correct colors and rebuild details which isn't fun. =)
From a camera point of the best advice given to me was to hit the "Play" button bring up the picture to preview then click on the "disp" button until you get the RGB chart on the right side and it starts flashing on over exposed and underexposed areas. Then every time you take a picture and if you're unsure of the output (because the EV meter will lie depending on how you have your light metering setup) you can quickly pull your eye back slightly to see if it is too dark or too light, and if you have lots or little "blinkies" telling you that you clipped shadow/highlight details.
Getting use to doing that will save you major headaches while shooting at every ISO.
XTI has 4 stops of color (same as old slide film) and the XSi has 5 stops (same as normal color film). That means in theory you can under or over expose a picture by roughly 2 (XTi) to 4 (XSI) exposures levels in Lightroom before your color and scene detail are forever lost (truth of the matter is different depending on how many shades of black and dark colors you have, and that just takes time to react correctly).
Note, on both XSI and XTI it is better to slightly overexpose than underexpose. You end up with much more multi-color noise (those evil red, blue, green dots) if you underexpose, and on the XT (can't speak for the XTI since I never owned one) being too under expose will completely trash detail and colors making one go on an adventure through Photoshop (or any other pixel editor) to selectively correct colors and rebuild details which isn't fun. =)
From a camera point of the best advice given to me was to hit the "Play" button bring up the picture to preview then click on the "disp" button until you get the RGB chart on the right side and it starts flashing on over exposed and underexposed areas. Then every time you take a picture and if you're unsure of the output (because the EV meter will lie depending on how you have your light metering setup) you can quickly pull your eye back slightly to see if it is too dark or too light, and if you have lots or little "blinkies" telling you that you clipped shadow/highlight details.
Getting use to doing that will save you major headaches while shooting at every ISO.
I'm from the "If there is a texture I can fix it" type mentallity. I thought this was a good demostration.
To be honest I did not recolor the picture. I exposed and push the natural colors of the image. So if I wanted to take it next step I would of recolored.
I didn't need to so this was a happy time :)
To be honest I did not recolor the picture. I exposed and push the natural colors of the image. So if I wanted to take it next step I would of recolored.
I didn't need to so this was a happy time :)
Being that Jasc used to be (is?) a MN based I should be more go them type but....
The short answer is - depends how much you care.
I will download a copy of X2 through their evaluation copy to check it out and come back in next few hours with an answer. Since Paint Shop Pro X and 7 both don't support my cameras and can't load them up to give a valid opinion I would have to look at X2. I know that 10 would start "destroying" the picture early on so it is not comparable to Lightroom or Aperture.
The short answer is - depends how much you care.
I will download a copy of X2 through their evaluation copy to check it out and come back in next few hours with an answer. Since Paint Shop Pro X and 7 both don't support my cameras and can't load them up to give a valid opinion I would have to look at X2. I know that 10 would start "destroying" the picture early on so it is not comparable to Lightroom or Aperture.
From what I saw they really didn't support it to the X2 ultimate version the problem I see it's a different beast than lightroom and what i read it's not up to the task. 10 or 7 would definatly be destructive you could start simulating it with
Did some extra research and it really does look like it starts to destroy the bit(s) during simple color tasks so the answer is probally not easy. I will take a stab with X2 Ultimate evaluation after MFF but from what I read on Corel site and on the internet it's not going to be easy or possible.
Did some extra research and it really does look like it starts to destroy the bit(s) during simple color tasks so the answer is probally not easy. I will take a stab with X2 Ultimate evaluation after MFF but from what I read on Corel site and on the internet it's not going to be easy or possible.
Depends on the camera
On a Canon XTI their raw files average for me 8 - 10 megs.
On a Canon XSI their raw files for me average about 12-18 megs
I'm hearing on the T1I 15-20 megs
From what i know of the 7D and 5D Canon cameras they get about 22-30 megs
It all depends how the lzw compress can compress the original picture. A lot of times it can do a good job. Other times not as well.
It's easy to burn hard drive space with it.
That is why I learned that Drobo is my friend.
On a Canon XTI their raw files average for me 8 - 10 megs.
On a Canon XSI their raw files for me average about 12-18 megs
I'm hearing on the T1I 15-20 megs
From what i know of the 7D and 5D Canon cameras they get about 22-30 megs
It all depends how the lzw compress can compress the original picture. A lot of times it can do a good job. Other times not as well.
It's easy to burn hard drive space with it.
That is why I learned that Drobo is my friend.
Remember this is photoshop lightroom I was using - that is a different beast than photoshop.
You can do some of the stuff if not all in Photoshop you have to be careful and stay in Adobe Camera Raw part of smart objects as soon as you exit out of smart object or rasterize it you go destructive and this tutorial doesn't work as well ;)
You can do some of the stuff if not all in Photoshop you have to be careful and stay in Adobe Camera Raw part of smart objects as soon as you exit out of smart object or rasterize it you go destructive and this tutorial doesn't work as well ;)
A good friend of mine looked at it and figured out by the jpeg that I was going -2 EV to 3-5 EV changes from the JPEG depending on the area.
The things that help here is
A) The bits of the camera is 14 bits you get more color depth with that even though in the end it's 8 bit jpeg here. That allows me a lot of play in the color space.
B) Color space is a more dynamic made for 16 bit color space.
C) RAW format itself.
D) Lightroom keeps doing the changes on the original picture. So even brushes are done at run time as a merge of all changes. You get a lot less effects because of that.
I've done a lot WORSE picture but I thought this would be a good example.
The things that help here is
A) The bits of the camera is 14 bits you get more color depth with that even though in the end it's 8 bit jpeg here. That allows me a lot of play in the color space.
B) Color space is a more dynamic made for 16 bit color space.
C) RAW format itself.
D) Lightroom keeps doing the changes on the original picture. So even brushes are done at run time as a merge of all changes. You get a lot less effects because of that.
I've done a lot WORSE picture but I thought this would be a good example.
I now see how those extra color bits can be very valuable even though JPGs are only 8 bits. Thanks! I had been wondering about why good cameras have 12 to 14 bits of color. Having those 6 extra bits allows a LOT of room for error - or for a subject with a very high dynamic range such as a black horse with the sun behind it and snow covered peaks in the background on a cloudless day.
Does Lightroom do everything on a vector image and not convert it to a raster image until everything is done? Does it maintain the vector image for possible further work?
If so, do Lightroom plugins all work on the vector image?
Does Lightroom do everything on a vector image and not convert it to a raster image until everything is done? Does it maintain the vector image for possible further work?
If so, do Lightroom plugins all work on the vector image?
It maintains the image as it was before. Photos aren't vector image but rar keeps a lot of image detail.
You can really notice the difference between 12 and 14 bits I always wonder why we haven't seen a serious 16 bit camera it might not really work well sensor wise.
Basically when you work on image it does all the changes/modification at the last moment. So you get the best quality since you might have some parts layered with changes.
Plug-ins are a beast with lightroom. Long story short it outputs it as a separate file and separate it from the negative/original file.
At that point you start loosing some advantages of raw.
I've not seen a raw workflow where plug ins are not destructive. Adobe is supposedly working on it but haven't figured out an efficient way yet.
You can really notice the difference between 12 and 14 bits I always wonder why we haven't seen a serious 16 bit camera it might not really work well sensor wise.
Basically when you work on image it does all the changes/modification at the last moment. So you get the best quality since you might have some parts layered with changes.
Plug-ins are a beast with lightroom. Long story short it outputs it as a separate file and separate it from the negative/original file.
At that point you start loosing some advantages of raw.
I've not seen a raw workflow where plug ins are not destructive. Adobe is supposedly working on it but haven't figured out an efficient way yet.
Heheh, that's quite the demonstration! I love using Lightroom, and I kinda have to with my D700 in order for it to recognize my RAW image files. Plus the workflow is much quicker in Lightroom than Photoshop. I use Lightroom version 2 (not sure which version of 2 exactly), and it works wonders especially when you get to use the brush to adjust either exposure, saturation, contrast, or something. It's very handy! I can see from this photo, you tried really hard to get it improved a bit. I would agree if you could have just used a better exposure, this wouldn't have been so bad XD. The photo isn't too bad, but I can really tell it was a push to get it 'desirably good' XD.
Wonderful clear cut example.
uh...now photoshop just needs to catch up to my camera. It's a Nikon D5000. Their NEF plugin doesn't support my camera. So I have to transfer everything to DNG then I can open it in PS. Too bad it takes it from a 300mp image to 240mp.
I should just buy Nikon's NFX or whatever it was called.
uh...now photoshop just needs to catch up to my camera. It's a Nikon D5000. Their NEF plugin doesn't support my camera. So I have to transfer everything to DNG then I can open it in PS. Too bad it takes it from a 300mp image to 240mp.
I should just buy Nikon's NFX or whatever it was called.
Right now I've only got a Panasonic lumix DMC-TS1 (because its bomb proof)
and an old 35mm Minolta SRT303b with a few lenses
once I get the time to start collage, I want to upgrade to a 7D or even a 5D
but I like to use photoshop cs3,
mostly the levels, and occasionally other tools for special effects.
is there any other tools that may be helpful in normal photo-shop?
and an old 35mm Minolta SRT303b with a few lenses
once I get the time to start collage, I want to upgrade to a 7D or even a 5D
but I like to use photoshop cs3,
mostly the levels, and occasionally other tools for special effects.
is there any other tools that may be helpful in normal photo-shop?
But... but... but... You started with NOTHING!!!! Maybe I have a horribly dirty screen (which I kinda do), but you can't see any details of the head and you can only see the green shirt... Remind me to take pictures as RAW from now on...
You have some pretty heavy-duty image voodoo going on here...
You have some pretty heavy-duty image voodoo going on here...
I use both Linux and Windoze. I'm actually about to upgrade to 7 from XP64, actually, so I can sync my iPhone to my desktop instead of my laptop!
Yeah, I did a quick Google for raw photo editors and several came up. I figured I'd start at the top and work my way down. The beauty, however, with going with someone else's choice is that I can bug them every time I get stumped on something and don't feel like reading the manual! XD
Yeah, I did a quick Google for raw photo editors and several came up. I figured I'd start at the top and work my way down. The beauty, however, with going with someone else's choice is that I can bug them every time I get stumped on something and don't feel like reading the manual! XD
On windows the top 4 I have looked at is Lightroom (master workflow), DXO (best overall image), Bibble 5 (nice noise handling), and Capture One (best for tethered shots). I have not tried Corel Aftershot Pro yet but it was made by the people of Bibble so I expect a decent engine.
But for me Lightroom wins overall the workflow.
ON teaching - I usually do for our local friends/furs tutorials on programs and camera. I'm more a hands on person so I usually do it with them with their own pictures or mine on the library starting the moment I see the pic.
But, I am willing to do a few "streams" when I am working to show people how i do my post work. Again I am more a hands on do it as it goes person.
But for me Lightroom wins overall the workflow.
ON teaching - I usually do for our local friends/furs tutorials on programs and camera. I'm more a hands on person so I usually do it with them with their own pictures or mine on the library starting the moment I see the pic.
But, I am willing to do a few "streams" when I am working to show people how i do my post work. Again I am more a hands on do it as it goes person.
I'll definitely check them out! If you do start streaming, I'll do my best to jump on for a while, but I work evenings, usually until after Midnight, so it's rare that I actually get to catch someone.
I know exactly what you mean as far as doing things Hands On and with a natural flow. It takes a trained instructor to be able to effectively talk about something from off the top of their head, and even then, to most students, it just barely makes sense.
One way or another, "Look out world, there's going to be one more Guy With a Camera" roaming around! XD
I know exactly what you mean as far as doing things Hands On and with a natural flow. It takes a trained instructor to be able to effectively talk about something from off the top of their head, and even then, to most students, it just barely makes sense.
One way or another, "Look out world, there's going to be one more Guy With a Camera" roaming around! XD
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