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Putting some cheek wear plates on the side of the bucket to give you an idea that steel is roughly one and one half inches thick. Where it is is also a very high load area... after all you have a 30 ton excavator pulling it through the ground.
Category Photography / Miscellaneous
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 1280 x 960px
File Size 394.2 kB
Listed in Folders
Yes needs these indeed. Buckets sides get hammered hard in hard material and can dent and tear if not thickened. One does not realize how much force is being exerted on these large buckets by the hydraulics and pull force. I have seen buckets that were not properly reinforced and they were all mangle and dented on the edges lie a knife or machete that has hit a hard object while cutting. Pull hard enough on a weak bucket and you can tear it apart. Metal will rip like paper if it get stressed enough.
Yup on every job you have at least one. Good on ya. My father taught me that same philosophy. Treat like it is yours, clean it , and fill it up when you are done, and return it in better shape than you got it in. Yup it takes time to fix broke things. They just have to learn to be patient if they break it. Especially if its bad broke. Sounds about right for bucket repair especially if the rock is hard. My dad would have to be careful with ripper shanks on the big cat he would use in the quarry sometimes. Blasting did not always break up the hard basalt and he had to rip through it. It would eat up the ripper teeth and right down into the shank if one did not keep an eye on it. hard ice will do the same. Had an uncle that worked in alaska on heavy equipment that was used to clear ice in the winter and said the ice would heat up the ripper teeth and melt them do to the massive friction being exerted on them. So I can understand the need to replace bucket teeth. Friction and abrasion are a pain in the rear.
We have a big high-drive D8 the last time we broke a tooth I made a drawing of the ripping shank and we had two made out of T1 plate... we haven't broken one yet... we got both shanks for half the funds of getting one cast shank. We had them in a week over a month and a half for the cast.
Yup its all about making sure you get good quality parts of good grade steel. Otherwise you going to quite literally burn through them. Cutting or milling out of solid material is always the best way to go. To often casting processes leave bubbles, voids, and other imperfections and the material is often softer than rolled plate. I learned this from my time in the Air Force as a sheet metal worker. I also learned more about it in the materials and processes course I had to take as part of my graphics degree. If there is one thing the ancient chinese taught us it is that forging steel makes a stronger more durable product.
Yeah, my local napa carries Esco teeth, S25 profile with the rubber keepers, I got a box of keepers and pins in case anything gets loose, keep them in the cab and right handy, I'm going to attack the bucket shoulders with a couple passes of 7018 and some MG 788 hard face, seems to hold up really well where used. I also have a modded quick coupler from a Cat 316, bored out to use the yanmar 50mm pins. Just have to steal some hydraulic flow from the pilot pump and run some small hard line and flex hoses. Hopefully new sprockets and top roller arrive this week.
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