The first step is to always level your build-plate as much as possible. Pick up some feeler-gages.
https://www.amazon.ca/Precision-Sta.....9a3f30b4&pf_rd_p=5e77f4a8-4312-40ba-837d-84569a3f30b4&pf_rd_r=4M5KQZA7D71RX259SJGJ&pd_rd_wg=kI9Jt&pd_rd_r=dc0d68d1-7fb9-4651-8ff1-3f8ee62718ab&pd_rd_i=B082W2QT5H

clean off the machine oil off the gages before you use them.

then tell the printer to 'auto-home' then select manual bed leveling or 'tramming' select a feeler gage the THICKNESS you want your layer to be, or as 'close to' as you have so for a .4mm nozzle select a gage between 0.15 and 0.2 mm. let the machine move the print head to each of the corners(depends on the make and model). Raise or lower the bed at each corner when the head is above it to the point where you can 'just' feel resistance moving the gage between the head and the build plate. repeat to with each corner.

NOTE: if the gap between the nozzle and the build plate is extraordinarily large at the start of the tramming process. (it should have the head where it would be at the start of a print). Then you will need to adjust the z-axis offset or whatever your printer calls it.

Auto-home again and test to see if this fixes the issue.

If it does not then there are some other things you can try.

1. If your slicer has a z-hop function, use it. It tells the printer to raise the head Xmm(normally need between .5 and 1) each time the printer moves to a different object. It 'may' leave some minor imperfections but it's better than the part being knocked over.

2. reduce your cooling fan speed. It's generally a good idea to have it ramp up gradually after being off for the first layer. some slicers from some companies seem to always set it to go 'full-blast' after the first layer. For small parts with a thin or tiny adhesion footprint, a fan going fill blast can blow them over.

3. Judging by the second pic(the one on the right) you may also need to play with the print temp setting. Many machines default pla to 195c, but depending on the maker the filament may need as high as 225c. It should be printed on the box. If not, google it, someone else should've asked the same question for the same brand.

4. clean the build plate between prints. some 99% ipa and dust free towel and a light wiping.

5. for small parts use a 'brim' and if you can set the brim separation distance to between a quarter to half of the nozzle diameter. This will allow the brim to both be able to give the part a better adhesion to the plate, while at the same time be removable with some minor post processing once done.

6. if all else fails, or if your slicer provided by the maker of the printer lacks these options. do not be afraid to switch slicers. Not all slicers are created equal. the best on the market is superslicer https://github.com/supermerill/Supe.....licer/releases It's a fork of pursa slicer. it has a lot of options but with some tweaking you can get it to give you great results.

one thing im suspecting is that it might not be 'impacting' per se, but as it passes over with teh next layer the filament coming out kind of 'tugs' on the layer below. like the machine is moving a bit fast for the material comming out.

I might try to boost the temp. 200 is the default for mine, but the filament says it can do up to 230. and if its hotter it might have less elasticity when drawn over a previous layer, maybe?

filament: https://www.ankermake.com/products/pla-filament

I'll try the 'brim' idea too.

Looking at the the printer, i assume it's the one on the site. you may need to run it's leveling program. My advice was based on a generic printer. bed alignment drifts over time, especially with printers that have moving beds.

Oh I have tried that, multiple times. doesn't help

but next time i have a larger print i may also try the glue stick thing and intentionaly print something floating to see if the support bottom layer gets ripped again.

How old is the bed surface? those pei build plates to wear out.

not that old. couple months.

Odd, i would expect a printer of that price class to not have a bed surface that wears out at the same speed as cheap Chinese creality clone. hmm, I would use glue sticks with 'caution' on a pei plate. they're normally used for people who like printing on glass. hairspray may be a good idea to try, it works for a lot of people, but be mindful and try to find one that lacks or has a less flammable propellant. Like the glue stick, it will have to be applied when the bed is hot, right before a print for maximum effectiveness.

In the mean time, get the bed dimensions and find a replacement pei plate. pei shouldn't be acting like this so the 3d printer maker must've skimped on it, in favor of spending money on other parts of the printer.

I wouldn't say go as far as i did, and get a custom machined aluminum build plate with a level tolerance of less than 1 mm like i did. But also keep in mind if no one has told you that print beds to warp over time too. the nature of the beast of heating a material to 60c and back to room temp multiple times.

it definitely doesn't SEEM to have worn. its double sided and looks no different on the other side. also hey I just learned the word 'pei'

a printed a small thing and it came out great, but its also small to the issue would be less pronounced. I don't have much reason to print more right now, so I haven't really tested stuff yet. not sure when I will either. busy with other things and all.

Thanks for you suggestions. I really appreciate it, Hopefully I'll make more prints in the future to share.

good to here, but that's the thing pei is a clear coat on the textured or flat surface. It's also going to wear out before the texture coating.
Oh
Also make sure the print surface has fully cooled before you remove a printed part or you may take some of the pei with it.

wel THAT last point is something i didn't know.

Hey hey. I finally got around to doing a print for work. Your "Brim" suggestions seems to have worked. thanks.

you welcome.

what type of filament are you using? it could be that as well.

https://www.ankermake.com/products/pla-filament

How long has it been out and have you dried it?
I would also change your infill to 3D cubic subdivide. <-- this makes for a better and much stronger interior.

I'm also curious what slicer you're using because I use Cura and have great lines. Granted it took a bit to fiddle with the settings on the printer but it works great now.

Proper slicer and layer adhesion: https://www.furaffinity.net/view/51598181/
This is what 3d cubic subdivision looks like with clear filament.
https://www.furaffinity.net/view/51598167/

I'm using Ankermake's own slicer.

the filament has been out for a couple weeks, sitting on the printer.

i'll try the infill

Ok :) hope that helps at least a little bit!