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Went to the Sprint Grand Prix competition this weekend to shoot some photos. Some of the big names of snowboarding were there. I Got some GREAT photos I think. I also got to really break out my new Rokinon 8mm f/3.5 fisheye. Sorry, you guys are gonna get some snowboarding spam XD
Some of the better shots, I may look to sell to the respective sponsors (will see how this whole thing works, no biggie if it doesn't). If that does happen though, those photos will have to be taken down I imagine.
Some of the better shots, I may look to sell to the respective sponsors (will see how this whole thing works, no biggie if it doesn't). If that does happen though, those photos will have to be taken down I imagine.
Category Photography / Human
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 1280 x 841px
File Size 996 kB
No, what I usually do is shoot a few test shots every so often. My camera has the ability to show histograms and to "flash" areas that are out of the dynamic range of the camera. Basically, it will blink the areas that are either too dark or too light to have been captured by that shot. You can also look at the histogram to get an idea of how the pixels are distributed along the brightness scale. If something is too blown out or too dark, I can adjust it with the exposure offset button where it will manually override the cameras automatic "correct exposure" setting.
For example: I'll have the camera set in shutter speed priority. This means that the camera will adjust the aperture in order maintain the shutter speed and keep things properly exposed. Sometimes though, it will make a mistake and make things too bright/dark. I pop off a quick test shot and look to see if anything is flashing. Sure enough, it's too bright in some areas. I will then hold the exposure offset button and turn the wheel enough times to make the camera shift what it thinks is proper exposure down a stop or two. So now instead of the camera thinking it needs an aperture of f/4, with my 1/3 stop offset, it will hold an aperture of f/5.6 because of given it a 1/3 stop offset.
For example: I'll have the camera set in shutter speed priority. This means that the camera will adjust the aperture in order maintain the shutter speed and keep things properly exposed. Sometimes though, it will make a mistake and make things too bright/dark. I pop off a quick test shot and look to see if anything is flashing. Sure enough, it's too bright in some areas. I will then hold the exposure offset button and turn the wheel enough times to make the camera shift what it thinks is proper exposure down a stop or two. So now instead of the camera thinking it needs an aperture of f/4, with my 1/3 stop offset, it will hold an aperture of f/5.6 because of given it a 1/3 stop offset.
It's useful for architecture and some landscape applications. Also star trails are fun with it. This is a Rokinon 8mm f/3.5 lens. Cropped sensor lens, NO autofocus and manual aperture ring:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n.....ds=rokinon+8mm
So a little under $300.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n.....ds=rokinon+8mm
So a little under $300.
Aperture ring seems fine. Is a bit weird that it doesn't have detents for I think f/4.0, but because it's manual you can still twist it that far without issue. Honestly, you don't use a lens like this for bokeh really. At 8mm, the dof is sooooo huge. You have to really TRY to achieve bokeh with this thing.
Sounds pretty solid, I'll have to research it more. Thanks for bearing with me ^^ I mean I can always read reviews but I'd rather get it straight from the horses mouth.
Was thinking of the bokeh for effects like
http://s1.favim.com/orig/11/bokeh-f.....com-177132.jpg
http://favim.com/orig/201106/02/apl......com-63879.jpg
but I'm assuming those have shallower DOF's
Was thinking of the bokeh for effects like
http://s1.favim.com/orig/11/bokeh-f.....com-177132.jpg
http://favim.com/orig/201106/02/apl......com-63879.jpg
but I'm assuming those have shallower DOF's
Is that when fully open? Most all lenses will at least be round when fully open. The question usually is about how homogenious the light dispersion is in the bokeh. The reason you see the hexagons is usually because the person has stopped down a few and so you're getting some diffraction effects due to the aperture no longer being a perfect circle.
Ah thanks. It's actually not that tough. The snow acts as a huge reflector so it's actually really easy to shoot. The difficult days are the overcast ones. There is NO contrast anywhere so autofocus is basically useless but you NEED it for fast moving subjects that are random in movement.
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