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The end result; a few problems arose after about 30 mins of the test burn. These will be recorded here for posterity:
1) Duct tape connections on the air hose failed. This was not unexpected. These will be replaced with sturdier metal fittings.
2) The forge did not reach a high enough temperature for full annealing. Though the colour case spectrum was expressed, the metal did not take on the classic cherry red hue or lose its magnetisim. This could be because of problems with the air flow.
3) Air flow was obstructed early on by ash and cinder build up, resulting in an uneavyn distribution of flow. More air holes should help to alleviate this.
4) Fuel was of an insufficient quantity or quality for successful heating to forging temperatures.
Surprisingly, the duct tape holding the fire pan to the lower part of the forge held and displayed only minimal stress. Fire cement is truly fantastic stuff.
I'll be back and having another crack at this next week.
1) Duct tape connections on the air hose failed. This was not unexpected. These will be replaced with sturdier metal fittings.
2) The forge did not reach a high enough temperature for full annealing. Though the colour case spectrum was expressed, the metal did not take on the classic cherry red hue or lose its magnetisim. This could be because of problems with the air flow.
3) Air flow was obstructed early on by ash and cinder build up, resulting in an uneavyn distribution of flow. More air holes should help to alleviate this.
4) Fuel was of an insufficient quantity or quality for successful heating to forging temperatures.
Surprisingly, the duct tape holding the fire pan to the lower part of the forge held and displayed only minimal stress. Fire cement is truly fantastic stuff.
I'll be back and having another crack at this next week.
Category All / All
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 1280 x 960px
File Size 280.3 kB
a word of advice, i would suggest a metal cover over the top, as the heat would escape quite quickly without any housing. as for the ash covering the holds, i would suggest a sort of screen, though finding one that would prevent something as fine as ash would be difficult, especially handling the heat. might also use epoxy with with the air tube and venting, that stuff is pretty sturdy and should hold fairly well.
I'd be very hesitant of putting any kind of cover on it; this thing will reach 1000 celsius plus when I get it working right, plus it is necessary to rapidly move heated metal in an out of the firepan as it is worked, which is hampered by a lid.
The holes I think won't be so problematic when I have it running as I desire it to; on close inspection part of the duct tape connecting the two halves gave way, which is probably what resulted in a loss of positive pressure through the air ducts. Definitely need an alternative for that.
Epoxy sounds liek a good idea, do you know much about the flammability risks of it? I was going to simply use some plumbers piping and connectors.
The holes I think won't be so problematic when I have it running as I desire it to; on close inspection part of the duct tape connecting the two halves gave way, which is probably what resulted in a loss of positive pressure through the air ducts. Definitely need an alternative for that.
Epoxy sounds liek a good idea, do you know much about the flammability risks of it? I was going to simply use some plumbers piping and connectors.
piping would be better, especially if its copper, I'm not sure about the flamibilty of epoxy though, or a melting temperature, i would have to look that up. and about the lid, if you had something covering the top, but then you leave the side open to pull out the metal with some tongs, it would work well, much like an actual forge. you might also want to try a caulking of some kind, like that foam stuff. or rubber cement on the sides
Solder should be sufficient for the connection between the two tins; if the heat there is not enough to damage duct tape then I can't see many problems with something a little more sturdy.
Redarding the lid, I'm almost tempted to try this, but it would require further use of material to form the lid, and fire cement to make it heat resistant. Something to keep in mind for future builds; I have an old barbeque out the back that is begging for a conversion, but for a little practice project like this I think it would be overkill.
Interestingly I found that I had ordered some fire resistant resin, but it was never delivered. Mildly irritating- I shall have to chase that up.
Redarding the lid, I'm almost tempted to try this, but it would require further use of material to form the lid, and fire cement to make it heat resistant. Something to keep in mind for future builds; I have an old barbeque out the back that is begging for a conversion, but for a little practice project like this I think it would be overkill.
Interestingly I found that I had ordered some fire resistant resin, but it was never delivered. Mildly irritating- I shall have to chase that up.
These photos have been really inspirational. Making a forge and having a go myself has been something ive wanted to do for a while, but never got around to.
I'd had a plan very similar to yours, but instead of cement, cutting most the bottom of the tin out and using a car brake disc to line to bottom. The tin then provides a space to bank the fuel up, while the disc provides a durable base to it. Might be an idea worth you exploring (i'd love to hear your thoughts on it too.).
I'd had a plan very similar to yours, but instead of cement, cutting most the bottom of the tin out and using a car brake disc to line to bottom. The tin then provides a space to bank the fuel up, while the disc provides a durable base to it. Might be an idea worth you exploring (i'd love to hear your thoughts on it too.).
I'm certainly no expert on forge building, but I have seen that method used in tutorials and other home made forges. To be honest, a sturdier material will be worth the effort; the main reason is used sweets tins for this one was expendability. As most of this was experimental for me I was actually expecting it to fail catastrophically well before reaching forging tempratures.
However, I woud still line it out with fire cement, if only as a precaution. A proper forge should burn at roughly 1000 degrees (and higher if you are using gas-fired forges or pre-heating the air). The fire cement I used is good for up to 1200 celsius and was only £6- well worth the investment to save on possible damage to body or patio xD
However, I woud still line it out with fire cement, if only as a precaution. A proper forge should burn at roughly 1000 degrees (and higher if you are using gas-fired forges or pre-heating the air). The fire cement I used is good for up to 1200 celsius and was only £6- well worth the investment to save on possible damage to body or patio xD
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