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Shooting to stream the demolding and casting of this, had expected to add the second layer a bit earlier but hey, beggars can't be choosers lol... Explanation...
1. The materials shown are the basics I use. MOLD IN A VERY WELL VENTILATED ROOM. Even with a fan and an open window I will still use a mask over my nose and mouth. Even if the fumes are light for Dragonskin, they can still be harmful. Don't get that attitude of "oh its just for a short period of time." cause it can still cause harm. Chemicals are chemicals.
Disposable NON-LATEX gloves as well as a clean stir cup and a wooden stir stick. Plastic lain upon the table will aid in cleanup as well as protecting your work area of any residue.
2. This is about the average amount I've found to use upon my mask sculpts, between 6-8 oz per layer. You can always mix up more if need be. Be sure to shake and stir each part before pouring into the mix cup.
3. Stir well as a pocket of a single part un-mixed will give a gooey mess. Pigments are fairly cheap and if used for molds, will last quite a while. I usually like a bright first layer to help see where its at.
4. The thi-vex is some of the best stuff in the world I swear. The initial layer I will usually have it thick, but still be able to drip a tad so it can run into cavities such as the tear ducts or nostrils. Second layer is hefty and won't drip at all.
5. When spreading it on, small nips into the clay accidentally won't hurt as that will be furred over. Be very cautious of ares such as the nose, eyelids, or any other exposed area as those details need to be kept as they are.
6. I mostly focus upon detail preservation and area covered more than look. There are some thinner spots shown but those will be beefed up later.
7. I've used molds with keys and I've used them without and I will tell you, take the extra little time and make that mold look like it has cancer! It will help tremendously.
8. I'm blue aba di aba d... well... get the idea lol. This will be the main structure of the mold so this layer is thick and heavy. Darker pigment used to counteract the bright pigment so any missed spots are easily seen.
Demolding and casting will be a livestream tutorial. If my hands aren't too coated in anything I will try to take shots for a second part of this.
All chemicals shown purchased from Smooth-on.com
Tips from the pro's:
breakspire
Don't thicken the first coat at all. it should be a thin, and is usually called a "print coat" since it's what gets the details. thickened silicone traps more bubbles, so having a thin first coat eliminates bubbles at the surface
always DOUBLE MIX your silicone. so mix it in one cup, then put it all in another clean cup and mix some more. otherwise there's bound to be some unmixed stuff in the bottom or sides of the cup.
layers should be slightly sticky when adding the next. if they completely cure between layers you risk de-lamination. when you touch it with a gloved finger it shouldn't stick to it and come off, but tacky is good
1. The materials shown are the basics I use. MOLD IN A VERY WELL VENTILATED ROOM. Even with a fan and an open window I will still use a mask over my nose and mouth. Even if the fumes are light for Dragonskin, they can still be harmful. Don't get that attitude of "oh its just for a short period of time." cause it can still cause harm. Chemicals are chemicals.
Disposable NON-LATEX gloves as well as a clean stir cup and a wooden stir stick. Plastic lain upon the table will aid in cleanup as well as protecting your work area of any residue.
2. This is about the average amount I've found to use upon my mask sculpts, between 6-8 oz per layer. You can always mix up more if need be. Be sure to shake and stir each part before pouring into the mix cup.
3. Stir well as a pocket of a single part un-mixed will give a gooey mess. Pigments are fairly cheap and if used for molds, will last quite a while. I usually like a bright first layer to help see where its at.
4. The thi-vex is some of the best stuff in the world I swear. The initial layer I will usually have it thick, but still be able to drip a tad so it can run into cavities such as the tear ducts or nostrils. Second layer is hefty and won't drip at all.
5. When spreading it on, small nips into the clay accidentally won't hurt as that will be furred over. Be very cautious of ares such as the nose, eyelids, or any other exposed area as those details need to be kept as they are.
6. I mostly focus upon detail preservation and area covered more than look. There are some thinner spots shown but those will be beefed up later.
7. I've used molds with keys and I've used them without and I will tell you, take the extra little time and make that mold look like it has cancer! It will help tremendously.
8. I'm blue aba di aba d... well... get the idea lol. This will be the main structure of the mold so this layer is thick and heavy. Darker pigment used to counteract the bright pigment so any missed spots are easily seen.
Demolding and casting will be a livestream tutorial. If my hands aren't too coated in anything I will try to take shots for a second part of this.
All chemicals shown purchased from Smooth-on.com
Tips from the pro's:
breakspire Don't thicken the first coat at all. it should be a thin, and is usually called a "print coat" since it's what gets the details. thickened silicone traps more bubbles, so having a thin first coat eliminates bubbles at the surface
always DOUBLE MIX your silicone. so mix it in one cup, then put it all in another clean cup and mix some more. otherwise there's bound to be some unmixed stuff in the bottom or sides of the cup.
layers should be slightly sticky when adding the next. if they completely cure between layers you risk de-lamination. when you touch it with a gloved finger it shouldn't stick to it and come off, but tacky is good
Category All / All
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 1195 x 1280px
File Size 352.2 kB
tips:
don't thicken the first coat at all. it should be a thin, and is usually called a "print coat" since it's what gets the details. thickened silicone traps more bubbles, so having a thin first coat eliminates bubbles at the surface
always DOUBLE MIX your silicone. so mix it in one cup, then put it all in another clean cup and mix some more. otherwise there's bound to be some unmixed stuff in the bottom or sides of the cup.
layers should be slightly sticky when adding the next. if they completely cure between layers you risk de-lamination. when you touch it with a gloved finger it shouldn't stick to it and come off, but tacky is good
don't thicken the first coat at all. it should be a thin, and is usually called a "print coat" since it's what gets the details. thickened silicone traps more bubbles, so having a thin first coat eliminates bubbles at the surface
always DOUBLE MIX your silicone. so mix it in one cup, then put it all in another clean cup and mix some more. otherwise there's bound to be some unmixed stuff in the bottom or sides of the cup.
layers should be slightly sticky when adding the next. if they completely cure between layers you risk de-lamination. when you touch it with a gloved finger it shouldn't stick to it and come off, but tacky is good
Some very good tips. Rebound 25 seemed to be a little different in some of the rules when applying so when I swapped to 20, they transferred over ^^;. Have yet to quite learn to make a good tutorial and you clarified some serious points.
Normally I'm not a fan of the silicone going everywhere and I lacked enough clay to make a sufficient retaining wall, so I thickened it a bit (just lick pudding lol... yellow... sticky...pudding...). Doubling with the double mix as that's a really good tip. I had always sat and mixed furiously on the sides and bottom.... reading that makes me think that would be a much less hectic way. The last tip now especially. usually when I can leave a fingerprint in it but not have it leave any residue upon my finger/glove. I'm gunna throw all this into the description above in case anyone misses your comment seriously...
Normally I'm not a fan of the silicone going everywhere and I lacked enough clay to make a sufficient retaining wall, so I thickened it a bit (just lick pudding lol... yellow... sticky...pudding...). Doubling with the double mix as that's a really good tip. I had always sat and mixed furiously on the sides and bottom.... reading that makes me think that would be a much less hectic way. The last tip now especially. usually when I can leave a fingerprint in it but not have it leave any residue upon my finger/glove. I'm gunna throw all this into the description above in case anyone misses your comment seriously...
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