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Been meaning to get a good photo of this guy for a while. he's not 100% finished but I just had to show him off
Grand Master Belial of the Dark Angels, Deathwing Company
Grand Master Belial of the Dark Angels, Deathwing Company
Category All / Fantasy
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 892 x 728px
File Size 228.3 kB
For the most part he's a plastic assault terminator. normal power armoured marine shoulder pads were used to rebuild the back of the neck and gorget. the sword is the Emperor's Champion 'Black Sword' with a new guard built from a assault terminator sergeant icon. The stormbolter arm is from a grey knight plastic terminator, as is the shield. The leg greaves were scratch build and molded from green stuff as was the cloak. The wings are from the Dark Angel veterans kit. The shoulder pads are Deathwing pads from Forgeworld.
I think that's everything :-P
I think that's everything :-P
Im putting together a DA army thanks to two dark vengeance boxes i've split with my friends. Ive heard rumors of a DA release on new codex and minis sometime in november to december, so hopefully if they are true they will release a belial model.
This is one of the conversions that i've fallen in love with, and i was curious how it was made. I have no skills in greenstuff, teach me ! xD
This is one of the conversions that i've fallen in love with, and i was curious how it was made. I have no skills in greenstuff, teach me ! xD
When it comes to green stuff I can recomment the following: practice, practice, practice. That being said, there are a few tips I would pass on too
1. Mixing - when you're mixing green stuff make sure it is solid green before you start playing with it. best way I've found to do the mix is to tease out the blue side (the hardener) then pack the yellow side (the putty) inside. wrap the blue around it then roll it into a sausage. Take the two ends and join them together and start twisting the whole mess into another sausage. repeat several times, occasionally rolling it into a ball before starting over until it turns green. Note: if you want it to smooth out a little better, add a little vassaline jelly to the mix; just a small amount though, or it becomes unworkable.
2. Patients - Be prepared to wait. Green stuff takes about an hour to dry and 24 hours to set properly. Make sure you make enough to do several small portions or one big bit.
3. Tools - Have all the tools you need at hand. I always have the following at hand: clay shapers (rubber tipped paint brushes - great for sculpting and detailing with I have 4 with different sized and shaped heads), craft/hobby knife (you get these in pretty much any hobby store), Bendable razorblades (harder to find but worth the effort, some hobby/craft stores keep these but not all, be ready to hunt for them), sculpting/dentist tools (seems odd but yes, dentist tools are the best sculpting asset out there. Even the hobby legend Jes Goodwyn still uses them), vasseline jelly (again an odd one but it works better than water for smoothing the surface of green stuff - use in small amounts only or you won't see your results), More Green Stuff (you can never have enough!), Latex gloves (helps keep finger prints off of the green stuff and stops it sticking to you), A pot of water (keep your gloved fingers damp as it makes it easier to move the green stuff around without it becoming greasy)
4. Planning - Know what you want to do first. In the instance here, I needed to make leg greaves and a cloak. The cloak I just had to roll out a medium amount of green stuff flat, then cut a basic shape for the cloak. Wait for it to begin to harden (30 - 40 minutes) then work while it is stiffer but still pliable.
For the greaves I had to make a green stuff press. I cut the shape I wanted out of thin plastic (old blister packs or new clam packs are ideal) with a sharp knife and glued the shape to a spare flat base. I pressed this into a large amount of green stuff then removed it. I used bendable razorblades (you can get these at craft stores) and pins to make indents for embossing the final greave, following the outline first then doing interior detail. When the press was dry (next day), I greased it with a small amount of vassaline jelly and made more green stuff which I pressed over the mold. I left this for 45 minutes before peeling it off slowly so I didn't stretch any details. I used the bendable razors to cut around the curves and a sharp craft knife of the straight edges. I carefully picked it up and with a wet clay shaper I applied the greave over the standard terminator leg plate.
For the last step I learned from the tutorial by Scribor Monstrous, here - http://sciborminiatures.com/en_,scu.....ing.php?id=571
I hope that helps
1. Mixing - when you're mixing green stuff make sure it is solid green before you start playing with it. best way I've found to do the mix is to tease out the blue side (the hardener) then pack the yellow side (the putty) inside. wrap the blue around it then roll it into a sausage. Take the two ends and join them together and start twisting the whole mess into another sausage. repeat several times, occasionally rolling it into a ball before starting over until it turns green. Note: if you want it to smooth out a little better, add a little vassaline jelly to the mix; just a small amount though, or it becomes unworkable.
2. Patients - Be prepared to wait. Green stuff takes about an hour to dry and 24 hours to set properly. Make sure you make enough to do several small portions or one big bit.
3. Tools - Have all the tools you need at hand. I always have the following at hand: clay shapers (rubber tipped paint brushes - great for sculpting and detailing with I have 4 with different sized and shaped heads), craft/hobby knife (you get these in pretty much any hobby store), Bendable razorblades (harder to find but worth the effort, some hobby/craft stores keep these but not all, be ready to hunt for them), sculpting/dentist tools (seems odd but yes, dentist tools are the best sculpting asset out there. Even the hobby legend Jes Goodwyn still uses them), vasseline jelly (again an odd one but it works better than water for smoothing the surface of green stuff - use in small amounts only or you won't see your results), More Green Stuff (you can never have enough!), Latex gloves (helps keep finger prints off of the green stuff and stops it sticking to you), A pot of water (keep your gloved fingers damp as it makes it easier to move the green stuff around without it becoming greasy)
4. Planning - Know what you want to do first. In the instance here, I needed to make leg greaves and a cloak. The cloak I just had to roll out a medium amount of green stuff flat, then cut a basic shape for the cloak. Wait for it to begin to harden (30 - 40 minutes) then work while it is stiffer but still pliable.
For the greaves I had to make a green stuff press. I cut the shape I wanted out of thin plastic (old blister packs or new clam packs are ideal) with a sharp knife and glued the shape to a spare flat base. I pressed this into a large amount of green stuff then removed it. I used bendable razorblades (you can get these at craft stores) and pins to make indents for embossing the final greave, following the outline first then doing interior detail. When the press was dry (next day), I greased it with a small amount of vassaline jelly and made more green stuff which I pressed over the mold. I left this for 45 minutes before peeling it off slowly so I didn't stretch any details. I used the bendable razors to cut around the curves and a sharp craft knife of the straight edges. I carefully picked it up and with a wet clay shaper I applied the greave over the standard terminator leg plate.
For the last step I learned from the tutorial by Scribor Monstrous, here - http://sciborminiatures.com/en_,scu.....ing.php?id=571
I hope that helps
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