
Remember http://www.furaffinity.net/view/8363631/ ?
Yellow is the thinnest color known to man, especially when you have to water down the paint to keep it from getting yucky brush strokes everywhere. FML lol
One's for
corelli who has the patience of a saint and the other is for
nephisdragon's Borealis v2.0
Yellow is the thinnest color known to man, especially when you have to water down the paint to keep it from getting yucky brush strokes everywhere. FML lol
One's for


Category Photography / Fursuit
Species Gryphon
Size 700 x 616px
File Size 143.4 kB
Unfortunately no :( . Our store doesn't even have this yellow primer you speak of. It's in a semi-rural area so its just some shoddy hobby store that doesn't stock anything but citadel. A number of the professional warhammer painters use other brands, but I've never had any experience with them. From memory, there's Reaper, P3 and Vallejo Model Color.
There seems to be two ways to do it. Basecoat white + paint yellow, or basecoat brown + paint yellow. It'll depend on your paints as to which works best. My miniatures are blue/grey men riding wolves and rats, so I don't have a lot of yellow to paint (thank goodness!). Best of luck with it ^^
There seems to be two ways to do it. Basecoat white + paint yellow, or basecoat brown + paint yellow. It'll depend on your paints as to which works best. My miniatures are blue/grey men riding wolves and rats, so I don't have a lot of yellow to paint (thank goodness!). Best of luck with it ^^
I've heard of Vallejo before, it sounds like good stuff. My friend used it to paint his dragon claws but I forgot the name until you reminded me.
And yeah, this one had a white primer base, a yellow primer base over it and then a bajillion layers of the real yellow. In the end after I sprayed it with sealant it worked a treat but ugh, I think I'll charge extra for yellow paint jobs next time xD Thanks for the advice, it didn't occur to me that brown was also an option :3
And yeah, this one had a white primer base, a yellow primer base over it and then a bajillion layers of the real yellow. In the end after I sprayed it with sealant it worked a treat but ugh, I think I'll charge extra for yellow paint jobs next time xD Thanks for the advice, it didn't occur to me that brown was also an option :3
Yeah I think they like it cause it has a higher pigment quantity than (especially the new) citadel paints. Like you said, just charge more for the yellow one. Unless... maybe you could colour the resin yellow with a dye when you cast it. I know a lot of people colour it black.. but surely there's an opaque yellow dye...?
G'luck with fixing that foggy resin eye issue too, I have no idea what's making it do that O_o.
G'luck with fixing that foggy resin eye issue too, I have no idea what's making it do that O_o.
Yeah, you can get resin pigments but they're pretty pricey. But if that's what it takes, so be it!
And I think I've got the eyes figured out-- I had some duplicates I made in the same way that I stuck in my sock and they fogged up after a few hours. I think it's absorbing humidity, I'll try some new sealant and repeat the sock trick to confirm. I already know he's got a date with a melon baller when he gets back from RMFC >:3
And I think I've got the eyes figured out-- I had some duplicates I made in the same way that I stuck in my sock and they fogged up after a few hours. I think it's absorbing humidity, I'll try some new sealant and repeat the sock trick to confirm. I already know he's got a date with a melon baller when he gets back from RMFC >:3
No, not brown and then yellow. I was doing that with my Tau guys for a while and it was just as miserable as black and then yellow. I don't know why I thought this was a good idea at first =/ I was using army painter yellow for a bit. It's good, but you gotta do it in doors or it will get crap all over your figures =(
Anyway, I told her to use model paints rather than acrylics you buy at the art store. They do, as pointed out, have a higher pigment count so they cover a space a lot better. Though in my latest dabblings I have been able to figure out how to make store acrylics work better kinda... but you gotta buy other stuff to mix in with the paint to get it to level out right on the surface [since it's not paper.] Citadel was the easiest to buy, anything else we have to actually order from outside which kinda sucks. =( I can't even find Vallejo anywhere here in Canada. I have to ship it from the UK. I guess that means I should switch, but I don't want to learn a whole new paint set. =P
Anyway, I told her to use model paints rather than acrylics you buy at the art store. They do, as pointed out, have a higher pigment count so they cover a space a lot better. Though in my latest dabblings I have been able to figure out how to make store acrylics work better kinda... but you gotta buy other stuff to mix in with the paint to get it to level out right on the surface [since it's not paper.] Citadel was the easiest to buy, anything else we have to actually order from outside which kinda sucks. =( I can't even find Vallejo anywhere here in Canada. I have to ship it from the UK. I guess that means I should switch, but I don't want to learn a whole new paint set. =P
:( well that sucks. Like I said, I have Skaven, space wolves and high elves, so I haven't really had any experience with massive yellow. I know the dude that paints his marines as Imperial Fists at my hobby center does brown -> yellow though. But that doesn't mean its great.
We have to import anything if we want it here too... Australia for the lose. xD. I totally understand not wanting to swap paints. Moving from old citadel to new citadel was bad enough. Especially when the paints are $6 each. D: Luckily I only had space wolf colours for the original paints, so I didn't have to replace *that* many.
We have to import anything if we want it here too... Australia for the lose. xD. I totally understand not wanting to swap paints. Moving from old citadel to new citadel was bad enough. Especially when the paints are $6 each. D: Luckily I only had space wolf colours for the original paints, so I didn't have to replace *that* many.
Pretty much how everyone does their moving jaws --> http://www.matrices.net/balaclava.asp
In this case instead of a foam muzzle I slap a beak on there, but the mechanics are otherwise the same.
As for the inside, I lined it with fleece for looks (in retrospect I should line them after I prime them, the white shadow you see on the right is primer overspray but you shouldn't see it in the completed mask) --> http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg82.....mp;res=landing
In this case instead of a foam muzzle I slap a beak on there, but the mechanics are otherwise the same.
As for the inside, I lined it with fleece for looks (in retrospect I should line them after I prime them, the white shadow you see on the right is primer overspray but you shouldn't see it in the completed mask) --> http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg82.....mp;res=landing
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