buying a FUCKING car (help recommend)
12 months ago
hi so our trailbalzer's transmission finally gave up (slipping bands?) and the shit-ass nissan frontier we bought for SOME UNKNOWN REASON goes into limp mode at 50+mph and i'm gonna try replacing the throttle position sensor
and my f-150's distributor is cum
point of this is that we're making 720 mile trips to take my grandpa to chemo every other week and we need to get a new car before i shove a 12-gauge up my asshole
so, i've been looking local
Nissan Versa? Subaru Crosstrek? Something between $16K and $27K (the dealers address that the 2025 models are 20K miles, $0 down payment blah blah like $350 to $500 a month depending on the car)
should i fuck with those if that's our budget to pay off over 6 years??
thanks hi i know some of y'all know cars way more than i do
and my f-150's distributor is cum
point of this is that we're making 720 mile trips to take my grandpa to chemo every other week and we need to get a new car before i shove a 12-gauge up my asshole
so, i've been looking local
Nissan Versa? Subaru Crosstrek? Something between $16K and $27K (the dealers address that the 2025 models are 20K miles, $0 down payment blah blah like $350 to $500 a month depending on the car)
should i fuck with those if that's our budget to pay off over 6 years??
thanks hi i know some of y'all know cars way more than i do
FA+

I'd see how cheaply you can get into a Civic/Corolla/Crosstrek/Impreza if that's the kind of car you're looking for.
The used car market is still a bit gouged and fucked from covid era. The nissan versa is fine, CVTs are problematic but less so the more recent the car is.
Dealership will aim you towards monthly payments to distract you from end, total sticker price. Don't let them, it isn't your imagination and the end price really matters.
Unless you're buying it cash, the loan matters a lot -- API is important, but more subtle stuff is moreso -- you have to find out of the loan will allow you to pay double towards the principle. IE., if you make double payments you can avoid paying the interest that might inflate the price by 33-77%.
Prioritize value at the moment, you don't want to be buying a new car right now and so don't spend extra on features, you may wind up replacing the vehicle when your circumstances change.
If you can somehow buy the car cash, if you don't have credit established you may want to take the loan anyway, ONLY AFTER VERIFYING YOU CAN MAKE ADDITIONAL PAYMENTS BEYOND THE MONTHLY, and pay off the car quickly if not immediately to establish credit like a boss. As credit will be needed later, and lots of folks tend to avoid 'debt' because nobody likes owing money, only to get fucked when it's too late.
New cars have drivetrain coverage, IE., the car is covered for most anything that can go wrong for a big chunk of mileage, and that's the biggest pro to buying new\certified used versus used.
But don't confuse that for a guarantee that nothing can go wrong in that time, just that if it does they'll take a mystery amount of time fixing it for free. So reliability and reviews still matter.
Shopping for a model that is sold new but still a year or two old can let you look up reviews for that model from people that have already been driving it for months.
i can definitely use this shitass cocksuckin nissan frontier as a motherfuckin, goddamn collateral for a loan since i was tricked into paying it off lump sum at the dealership in my name
i just gotta like, do a lotta screaming cos my folks DON'T want a toyota/mitsubishi/chevy (even tho we have a fuckin chevy that lasted at least 8 years)
idk i'm just iffy about getting a "2025" nissan or subaru cos uh, it's not even 2025 so idk how that works cool cool cool is it a lemon or a lime
If someone got you to pay off a car lump sum once already you're toasted -- they know you got cash, people seldom if ever do that even when they can, these days, and most folks are way more used to being constantly under the thumb of a car loan, that they can barely pay, and barely avoid getting repo'd. So if someone can demonstrate that they're miles better off than that buying a ride cash, then you're uncle moneybucks as far as they're concerned
Very helpful
i'd have an H3 like god fucking intended.
Before you pay money for any car, it's worth it to take it to another shop and get a PPI "Pre Purchase Inspection"
It's usually 100-200$ and they will put it up onto a lift and go through all the vital parts of the car so you know it's being represented correctly. If the person selling it doesn't want it to go and get a PPI, then you know they probably have something to hide.
I would never purchase a car without one.
Yeah some purist truck owners may scoff at it, but the things gets me from point A to point B with decent fuel and decent utility.